8 A SPRING TOUR IN PORTUGAL. 



heard a very different tale from those who traversed 

 the Bay at all seasons of the year. A violent storm was 

 often encountered there in the middle of summer ; while, 

 on the other hand, a dead calm would sometimes prevail 

 there in the winter months. One gentleman averred, that 

 in the month of July he was kept three days in the middle 

 of the Bay in a storm, without moving or attempting to 

 move : the steamer was simply allowed to roll with the 

 waves; for, as she could with press of steam scarcely make 

 half a knot an hour, the captain preferred waiting to ex- 

 pending his fuel to no purpose. And all allowed it to be 

 a most stormy spot, and that there were no such waves as 

 the Atlantic waves, and that three waves may always be 

 seen together, and that they came into the Bay of Biscay 

 with surprising force and violence. 



Xow,we experienced what would be considered favourable 

 weather and a good passage ; and yet we saw^ quite enough 

 to tell us that the Bay of Biscay amply deserves the 

 character it has gained. From the time we entered the 

 Bay until we rounded the Spanish coast, being the greater 

 part of two days, the cold north-east w^ind froze our bones, 

 the large, long, rolling waves made themselves felt, and for 

 those two days we saw neither land nor bird nor fish, and 

 but very rarely a sail in these inhospitable, deserted waters. 

 I never before saw so desolate a sea, and the officers of the 

 Shannon assured me it was always so there. Moreover — 

 sure proof of rough weather — our plates and dishes and 

 glasses and bottles were confined within mahogany frames, 

 and strapped to the table at dinner, for we ventured to 

 make our appearauce regularly at meals, the winds and 

 waves and the Bay of Biscay notwithstanding. 



When we went on deck on the morning of Easter Day 

 we found a thorough change of atmosphere. We had sud- 

 denly jumped during the night from winter to summer; 

 we had passed within sight of the lights of Cape Finisterre; 



