m rKODUCTORY. 7 



lights of Portland ; and that was the last glimpse we had 

 of the English coast, as we held our way down the Channel, 

 the cold north-east wind forbidding us to remain on deck, 

 and compelling us to seek shelter below. 



The following morning found us off the F'rench coast, 

 and before mid-day we had passed Ushant, and soon after 

 lost sight of land altogether. As this was Good Friday, I 

 offered myself as chaplain, and proposed to have service 

 for the crew and the English passengers on board; but the 

 captain pleaded that, in consequence of meeting so many 

 vessels in the Channel, all the officers and the greater part 

 of the crew had been on duty all the previous night ; that 

 all was in confusion the first day at sea ; and that most of 

 the passengers were sea-sick, and therefore begged leave to 

 decline my offer, which, however, he would gladly accept 

 for Easter Day. 



And now, during this and the following day, we were 

 fairly in the Bay of Biscay, by common consent allowed to 

 be the home of the storm, and the focus where the largest 

 waves and the highest winds congregate. The east wind, 

 which had followed us from Southampton, gained a little 

 more courage as we advanced into the Bay, and the waves 

 were certainly of grand dimensions, and smaller vessels 

 which we passed or met were labouring heavily, and pitch- 

 ing in a most uncomfortable way; but here our fine large 

 paddle-wheeled vessel show^ed to advanta,ge, and we could 

 afford to admire the great waves of the Atlantic as they 

 rolled in, and to speculate on their size and height, un- 

 deterred by fear of the ill effects which they so frequently 

 produce. I had once, indeed, been assured by a gallant 

 admiral, who for years had cruised in these waters, that 

 the Bay of Biscay was the most maligned spot in the world, 

 and that the popular tales of its frequent storms and the 

 terror which its very name inspired in the breasts of timid 

 landsmen were delusions founded on libels; but now I 



