COIMBRA. 115 



has witnessed many a stormy scene, as well as many an 

 important event in the annals of Portugal ; for hither 

 in troublous times repaired more than one sovereign, in- 

 cluding the famous Cid, when, for a short period, Coimbra 

 enjoyed the proud position of capital of the newly erected 

 kiny^dom of Portuo^al. 



Of the new cathedral, which we also visited, I need say 

 nothing, beyond recording the fact, that when we entered 

 a service was being admirably sung by a full choir of six- 

 teen men and boys, but not a single worshipper was present : 

 so that England is not the only country in P]urope where 

 scanty congregations attend the daily service in cathedrals. 

 It came on to rain heavily, as we wandered about Coimbra, 

 and we took refuge during a storm in the covered fruit 

 market. Here we found the usual fruit and vegetables 

 displayed, such as we had seen at Lisbon, and huge piles 

 of the finest oranges, which were to be bought for the 

 veriest trifle, and which from their profusion seemed to be 

 a drug in the market,. but a very sweet and pleasant drug, 

 though the supply was certainly greater than the demand ; 

 and that notwithstanding the pertinacity with which all 

 classes attack this delicious fruit, morning, noon, and night. 

 I would here observe, for the information of my readers, 

 that though oranges begin to change colour in October, 

 and are then picked for exportation, and left to ripen in 

 the chests wherein they are packed, the rind becomes 

 tough, and they lose their freshness during the voyage, 

 and. are by no means the same delicate juicy fruit as those 

 which hang on the trees, mellowing in the sun, till the 

 spring. Indeed, in Portugal they are seldom considered 

 eatable before March, while they continue to improve in 

 flavour till May, and even June. The heaviest oranges 

 are invariably the best, and connoisseurs always select 

 their fruit by weighing them in the hand, without mucij 

 reference to their colour, shape, or appearance. This I 



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