BRAGA AXD IJOAf JESUS. 14^ 



nearly ripe; the wheat begiiiuing to turn colour ; and all 

 this in the early part of May, while the scorching sun 

 shone down upon our heads with a fierceness unknown in 

 more northern latitudes ; so that there was no lack of 

 objects to interest us in our leisurely journey through 

 Minho. 



Neither must I forget the occasional halts to change 

 horses at the road-side inns, where port wine of extra- 

 ordinary excellence was the general beverage consumed ; 

 and though it seemed strange to be sipping port wine at 

 a pothouse at an early hour on a brilliant morning, we 

 thought it well to follow the adage of doing at Eome as 

 the Eomans do, and we too imbibed the port after the 

 example of our fellow-passengers. 



But now we found that our five horses were crawlino- 

 over the ground so leisurely, that if we followed our 

 original intention, of making a detour by Guimaraens, on 

 our way to Braga, we should not reach that city till late 

 in the afternoon, which would not at all square with our 

 arrangements. So when we reached the bifurcation, 

 whence the roads branch respectively to the two towns 

 above-named, we transferred ourselves to the carriao-e for 

 Braga direct, and abandoned the intention of visiting'- 

 Guimaraens. Even then we consumed nearly eight hours 

 in accomplishing the journey of thirty miles; and not- 

 withstanding the lovely scenery, we were heartily glad to 

 reach the long straggling suburbs of the dull old town of 

 Braga, and to traverse the streets of that large slumbering 

 city, the fourth in the kingdom in point of population, 

 though assuredly the last in enterprise and trade, if one 

 might judge from the superficial aspect it presents to the 

 traveller. 



We found tolerable lodging and very indifferent food at 

 the Hospedaria ' Estrella do Norte,' and after dinner and 

 a siesta, we sallied forth to explore the city and its churches, 



