THE RIVER LIMA AND VIAXXA. 155 



a disputed matter, we could make our way down the upper 

 part of the river during the present season of low water. 

 It was well that we did not make the attempt, for no sort 

 of road connects the two towns, and there was not -^vater 

 enough in the Lima to render the passage of boats prac- 

 ticable far above our present point. However, we em- 

 ployed the afternoon on the day of our arrival in ascending 

 in a little flat-bottomed punt as far as we could, under the 

 guidance of two boys, who were evidently somewhat alarmed 

 at their unusual occupation of conducting two foreigners 

 into those little-frequented reaches above the bridge ; and 

 it required all our powers of argument, and even threats, 

 in plain English as well as in our best Portuguese, to pre- 

 vent those timid urchins from turning the boat homewards 

 before we had explored the upper river to our satisfaction : 

 and as it was, we disembarked at the end of our voyage 

 long before sunset, having penetrated but a very short 

 distance in the direction of the eastern hills. The dis- 

 tino-uishinor features of the Lima seemed to be its tran- 



O O 



quillity and peace. It was on a splendid evening, succeeding 

 a very scorching day, that we lazily and very slowly as- 

 cended its stream, stretched at ease on green boughs at 

 the bottom of our boat, which was of the roughest descrip- 

 tion, and altogether guiltless of seats. The current was 

 of the feeblest, and the water as clear as crystal, and for 

 the most part exceedingly shallow. The air was soft and 

 gentle, and the only sound which met our ears arose from 

 the hoarse croaking of the frogs, or the splash of some 

 rising fish ; and it was certainly a most enjoyable termina- 

 tion to the day's journey, thus to follow the upward course 

 of this meandering river, so placidly wending its way 

 amidst the luxuriant meadows and wooded hills, and we 

 anticipated with great delight our voyage of the morrow, 

 which would occupy the whole day in descending the 

 river to Yianna : and for which we had bespoken accom- 



