178 ' A SPRING TOUR IX PORTUGAL. 



indeed, in this magnificent house, was our entertainment 

 from that which we had met with, only five years before, in 

 the principal hotel of Madrid at that date. 



We resolved to devote the whole of our time during our 

 two days' halt at Madrid to the unrivalled picture gallery, 

 of whose superlative treasures we retained distinct recollec- 

 tions, but where we desired to feast our e3'es, and refresh 

 our memories. Now Portugal is wholly destitute of pic- 

 tures, but whether this is a drawback or a boon to the 

 tourist, I must leave it to everyone to determine for him- 

 self. To him, however, who has been more than satiated 

 with the interminable galleries of Italy and Grermany, it is 

 almost a relief to be exempted for a time from the fatigue 

 which a constant succession of museums entails : but then, 

 when he arrives at ]Madrid on his way home, he will be 

 prepared to enjoy the finest collection of pictures in the 

 world, and he will bring to that splendid feast provided for 

 him, eyes that are not wearied with a surfeit of good things, 

 and a mind that is not clogged and overladen to reple- 

 tion, but a keen and healthy appetite, which can appreciate 

 the masterpieces before it. Moreover, the traveller who 

 is returning from Portugal, will not forget that this 

 Museii Real at Madrid owes its origin to a Portuguese 

 princess, for it was no other than the Queen of Ferdinand 

 VII., generally known as * la Portugueza,' who provided 

 funds from her own private resources, collected the scat- 

 tered pictures, and supplied a suitable receptacle ; and in 

 short, founded the original collection, which has since de- 

 veloped into so magnihceut a gallery. So here we revelled 

 in the grand works of Murillo and Velasquez, marvelled 

 anew at the glories of Raphael, and more especially at the 

 inimitable ' Perla ; ' and examined at our leisure the price- 

 less works of the principal Italian, German, and Flemish 

 masters, who are all well represented in this exquisite 

 gallery. 



