I 



GREY MULLET. 13 



passed through the mouth and gills, and then the fish was 

 left to wander to the end of the line in the sea; after which 

 it was drawn back again, when it was found to be followed 

 to the water's edge by some one or more of the opposite sex. 

 ^Elian relates this more at large, and says the decoy fish must 

 be selected as the most excellent and beautiful of its kind; 

 but in the title to his account of it he refers this habit to a 

 species he terms Oxyrhjnchus kejjJialus, or Sharp-nosed Mullet, 

 which he appears to distinguish from the simple Kephalus, as 

 also from the Kestreus, which is another kind of Grey Mullet. 

 Oppian also makes a distinction between the Kejihalus and 

 Kestreus, but refers to the same practice of attracting the 

 Kephalus near the shore, where a casting-net was thrown to 

 secure the prize. And strange as this story is, it is borne 

 witness to by Gesner, who is quoted by Willoughby as having 

 seen it practised, at Tarentum. A male fish Avas observed to 

 follow a female that had been sent out as a decoy, and, 

 although severely wounded with a spear, it would not be made 

 to quit its lure, until at last it fell a victim to its love. 



All writers agree in ascribing to this fish great quickness 

 of hearing, and it has even been supposed that it is capable 

 of the perception of particular sounds. The Cornish historian 

 Carew had formed a pond on a branch of the Tamar, in 

 which Mullets were fed at regular periods, and they were 

 drawn together to the appointed spot at the sound made by 

 the chopping of their food. We are not to conclude it certain 

 that the sacred fishes mentioned by Martial, as being preserved 

 in the Roman emperor's pond at Baise were Mullets, although 

 it is probable they were so; and it may have been with some 

 exaggeration that he says they each one knew their name, but, 

 where the sound was simple the general observation of the 

 fact is not without probability. 



From all accounts, ancient and modern, it is certain that 

 this fish has ever been in esteem for the table, although in 

 some places more than in others; and Ausonius says that to 

 be eaten in perfection it should be cooked within six hours 

 after it is caught. But there is a favourite preparation made 

 from it in Italy that is scarcely known in England. It is 

 called botargo, and is formed of the roe; which is carefully 

 removed from the fish, and sprinkled with salt for four or 



