334 . EXPERIMENTAL FARMS 



9-10 EDWARD VII., A. 1910 



is true that since 1882 we have had one year in which the land required little or no 

 preparation for the production of an abundant crop, but only too many realize the 

 loss in the remaining years from poor cultivation. 



* Our seasons point to only one method of cultivation by which we may in all 

 years expect to reap something. It is quite within the bounds of possibility that some 

 other and perhaps more successful method may be found, but at present I submit that 

 ' fallowing ' the land is the best preparation to ensure a crop. Fallowing land in this 

 country is not required for the purpose of renovating it, as is the case with the worn- 

 out lands in the east; and it is a question as yet unsettled how much or how little the 

 fallows should be worked, but, as we have only one wet season during the year, it has 

 been proved beyond doubt that the land must be ploughed the first time before this wet 

 season is over if we expect to reap a crop in the following year. The wet season comes 

 in June and July, at a time when every farmer has little or nothing else to do, and 

 it is then that this work should be done. Usually seeding is over by first of May, 

 and to secure the best results the land for fallow should be ploughed from 5 to 7 

 inches deep as soon after this date as possible. Land ploughed after July is of no use 

 whatever unleses the rains in August are much in excess of the average. A good 

 harrowing should succeed the ploughing, and all weeds and volunteer grain be kept 

 down by successive cultivations. A good deal of uncertainty is felt with regard to a 

 second ploughing; some holding that it is useless; others maintaining that it is an 

 injury ; while others again have found it to give from five to ten bushels per acre more 

 than one ploughing. So far the exx)eriments on the Experimental Farm have shown 

 that by far the best returns have been received from two ploughings, and more notice- 

 ably was this the case when the first ploughing had been completed in May or June. 

 Without doubt, two ploughings cause a greater growth of' straw, and consequently in a 

 wet year the grain is several days later in maturing, causing greater danger from 

 frost; but taking the seasons so far passed (1884 excepted), two ploughings with as 

 much surface cultivation as possible in between, may be safely recommended. 



' Above all, it is of the greatest importance that the first ploughing be as deep as 

 possible, and that it be done in time to receive the June and July rains.' 



From Report of 1906. 



' In view of the fact that every year brings to the Northwest many new settlers 

 who are unacquainted with the methods of breaking up and preparing new land for 

 crop, a few suggestions with regard to this very important work may not be amiss. 



' In all sections where the sod is thick and tough, breaking and back-setting should 

 be done; while in districts where scrub abounds and the sod is thin, deep breaking is 

 all that is necessary. 



' The former is generally applicable to the southern parts of Saskatchewan and 

 the latter to Alberta and the northern parts of Saskatchewan, where the land is more 

 or less covered with bluffs. 



SHALLOW-BREAKING AND BACK-SETTING. 



* The sod should be turned over as thin as possible, and for this purpose a walking 

 plough with a 12 or 14-inch share, is the best. When the breaking is completed (which 

 should not be later than the second week in July), rolling will hasten the rotting pro- 

 cess and permit back-setting to commence early in August. 



' Back-setting is merely turning the sod back to its original place, and at the same 

 time bringing up two or three inches of fresh soil to cover it. The ploughing should 

 b§ done in the same direction as the breaking and the same width of furrow turned. 

 Two inches below the breaking is considered deep enough, but three to four inches will 

 give better results. 



' After back-setting, the soil cannot be made too fine, and the use of disc or Eandall 

 harrow to cut up every piece of unrotted sod, will complete the work. 



