JSTew York Agricultural Experiment Station. 477 



" pruned for wood." Such pruning consists in cutting back a con- 

 siderable number of branches and in wholly removing others. In 

 pruning for wood the following rules are usually applicable: 



Weak-growing varieties may always be pruned generously; strong- 

 growing kinds, lightly. 



Varieties which branch freely need little pruning. Those having 

 unbranching limbs should be pruned closely. 



In cool, damp climates trees run to wood and need little pruning. 

 In hot, dry climates they need much pruning. 



Rich, deep soils favor growth; prune trees in such soils lightly. 

 In shallow, sandy soils, trees produce short shoots, and the wood 

 should be closely cut. 



PRUNING FOR FRUIT. 



A barren tree can sometimes be made to bear fruit by proper 

 pruning. Not infrequently barrenness is caused by over-manuring 

 or over-stimulation of some kind, because of which the numbers of 

 shoots and leaves are greatly increased, but flower buds do not 

 form. This over-production of wood and leaf can sometimes be 

 stopped by breaking or cutting off the greater portion of the season's 

 growth in the summer. Summer pruning is a weakening process and 

 in this climate may greatly decrease the vigor of the plants if fre- 

 quently resorted to. The practice is neither common nor often 

 necessary in this State except in the case of dwarf apples and pears. 



PRUNE ACCORDING TO HABIT. 



In pruning, the habit of the tree must always be considered. 

 When trees have a spreading, drooping or long, slender habit of 

 growth, prune to buds that point upward or to the center of the 

 plant. If the habit be upright and dense, cut to lower or outer 

 buds and so spread the compact top. The " off-year " habit of 

 bearing is intensified by spasmodic and severe pruning. Prune 

 biennial bearers rather conservatively and early. The heads of all 

 young trees may be left fairly dense, for when the trees come in 

 bearing the weight of the crop opens the head; meanwhile, by saving 

 the foliage you have obtained a larger trunk and more bearing wood. 



HEADING-IN. 



Heading-in makes the top of a tree thicker and broader. There 

 are but few orchards or even trees that do not need more or less 

 heading-in at some time in their history. But in our climate this 

 form of pruning is practiced only with peaches and some plums, 

 and is but little needed with other fruits. In winter pruning, the 

 cutting back of exceedingly long branches for the thickening of the 

 top of occasional trees or varieties is the exception rather than the 



