DIVISION OF HORTICULTURE 345 



SESSIONAL PAPER No. 16 



newly transplanted plants, and the cool, wet weather later on delayed blooming. How- 

 ever, even under these disadvantages, a good display was made, which attracted much 

 attention. 



A consignment of various kinds of bulbs for interior use in the winter and for 

 early spring bloom in the garden was received from the Dominion Horticulturist. 

 The tulips are the stand-by for the latter purpose; they made an excellent display 

 this past spring. 



The bulbs for house use were very satisfactory, and as this method of obtaining 

 bloom in the winter months is considered of special importance the following brief 

 article prepared on this subject is included herewith: — 



BULB CULTURE IN THE HOME. 



Practically everyone plans to have a showing of flowers during summer months, 

 but why should not the same precautions be taken in preparation for winter, when 

 there is such a dearth of colour? 



The practice of raising bulbs, e.g., hyacinths,, daffodils, tulips, etc., for winter 

 bloom should be more general. The work involved is comparatively trifling, and 

 the results most gratifying, but, with this, as with many other things, just a little 

 aside from the ordinary routine, people hesitate to make the start. Yet in reality, 

 more time and care is frequently expended in coaxing into bloom a few sickly 

 geraniums than would be necessary to produce a whole windowful of bright, cheery 

 daffodils. 



The first requisite, naturally, is a supply of good fresh bulbs, which should bo 

 obtainable of any reliable florist. These should be procured early in October, to 

 insure bloom for Christmas, and should be potted in loose, sandy soil, provided with 

 good drainage facilities. 



In general, the bulbs should be put in at such a depth that their tops will be 

 just below the surface of the soil, or, as in the case of the daffodils, slightly above it. 



The arrangement of the bulbs in planting is a matter for individual taste to 

 settle. One might have a long window box of tulips for example, with red or yellow 

 in the centre, and a border of white; or pots, ranging in size from the four-inch 

 size to those large, shallow fern pots, frequently used for hanging baskets. One 

 precaution should be observed in combining different varieties, and that is, to be 

 sure that those used together will bloom at the same time. A mass of bloom is 

 certainly beautiful, but when one has a limited supply of bulbs to draw from, it is 

 better to prolong the season of bloom, than to produce it all at once. Most bull is 

 do not object to crowding, in a seven inch pot one can put half a dozen daffodils, or 

 tulips or Roman hyacinths, while fully a dozen and a half of crocus will find plenty 

 of room in the same area. A very little practice will acquaint one with the habits 

 of the different kinds of bulbs, which, once learned, will facilitate pleasing com- 

 binations in arrangement. 



When the bulbs have been planted, they should be watered and set in a cool 

 cellar, or dark room. This marks the first and most laborious stage of the work; 

 all that then remains to be done, is to see that they are watered occasionally (say 

 once a iortnight, or less frequently according to the dampness of the cellar) and not 

 allowed to freeze. 



The difficulty of knowing just when to bring the pots up to the light, may bo 

 overcome in this way. After watering the pot, tip it upside down on the hand, 

 allowing the soil to leave the pot, (it will remain intact if carefully handled), and 

 determine the amount of root development. If the pot seems to be full of roots, it 

 is ready for the light, if not, even if the foliage seems well started, leave longer in 

 darkness, as development of foliage cannot be taken as an indication of root growth. 



