INDIANA HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, 523 



Iho fniit does not lill (tut wliere that appears, and it also takes the leaves. 

 Wo would spray for that early in the spring, about the time the buds are 

 beginning to start. Spray with the Bordeaux mixture or a sulphate of 

 copper solution alone. Bordeaux mixture is, you know, made up of blue 

 vitriol, lime and water. We spray with that just after the bloom 

 falls and leaves the young apple exposed, and to this we add the Paris 

 green, and there you have an insecticide and fungicide combined, prevent- 

 ing the scab and also the codling moth from entering the apple; and the 

 lime in the Bordeaux mixture enables the Paris green to adhere longer 

 to the apple and remain longer in an active condition. Now, spraj'ing for 

 the codling moth is a good deal like combating the pear blight that has 

 been spoken ot lure tonight. If it is not done properly and at the right 

 time, it is not going to do very mucli good, and is labor wasted. The time 

 to spray for the codling moth is immediately after the bloom falls, and 

 while the calyx or the bud of the apple— the blossom end— is still open and 

 the small apples are still standing with their heads up and the blossom 

 open. Then the spray falls in the calyx and remains there, till the cod- 

 ling moth lays its eggs somewhere on the apple, and the larvae work 

 their way to the blossom end and enter there. When the spraying has 

 been done at the right time and tlie larva* have worked to the calyx, it 

 gets some of the poison and stops there. 



Another important point is to have the spray tine enough. The time 

 to spray is very important, and a fine spray is also very important. Mr. 

 Burton showed you the Vermorel nozzle. This is the one we use, though 

 we have another that gives good satisfaction and success. That throws 

 a tine s]>ray if you have plenty of force behind it. With four nozzles it 

 takes a good deal of force to send the material tlirougli wnth sufficient 

 force to make the spray fine enough. A single drop will cover a good deal 

 of surface if it is broken into fine enough particles to cover the surface, 

 but it won't do much good as a single drop. The finer the spray the 

 better, and you must put power enough behind it to throw it with force 

 into the tree, so the entire surface of the tree is covered. That is very im- 

 portant, especially if you are spraying for apple scab, or any of tlae dis- 

 eases—to cover the^ entire surface of the loaves, the branches and the 

 fruit. These are two points of prime importance— the right time and a 

 fine spray. 



That will apply, of course, to all those enemies of the apple or any of 

 the orchard trees that feed on the foliage. Covering the foliage all over 

 with this spray will be of great benefit. 



The cankerworm is often very bad in orchards. I do not know how it 

 is down here, but in the northern part of the State it was very bad In 

 years past, and whore the spraying has boon done properly they have 

 succeeded in checking it entirely. The tlat-headed borer also gets into the 

 tree sometimes. I do not know, but I do not believe any of you eypv 



