300 EXPERIMENTAL FARMS. 



VEGETABLE GARDEN". 



Generally speaking, our farmers do not pay the attention they should to the growing 

 of vegetables, to supply at least their own tables during the greater part of the year. 

 It is generally the case that only a small percentage of those that might be cultivated 

 are grown, and those varieties which require much care and attention are not usually 

 included in the average kitcheii garden. It is too often the case that more expensive 

 foods take the place of those which the farmer might grow for himself. 



There is nothing more conducive to the general health than a good free use of gar- 

 den vegetables ; not only that but from an economical standpoint their growth to supply 

 a part of our daily food is worthy of our consideration. 



The work of keeping a well laid out kitchen garden properly cared for is not great 

 if done at the proper time. There is probably more thought required than actual time, 

 and the result of good planning are more marked in this department of farm work than 

 almost any other. To have the very earliest and best varieties of vegetables it is quite 

 necessary that we bring to our aid the hot-bed and the cold-frame. These are within 

 the reach of almost every farmer, and should form a part of every farm's equipment. 



During the past four years experiments have been carried on with some of the 

 different varieties of vegetables and in this report a summary is given of the results 

 obtained, and at the same time some hints given on the management of a kitchen garden. 

 The kitchen garden well furnished is a desirable adjunct to the farm not only for sup- 

 plying the table with wholesome food, but also that the young may be interested in 

 garden work and see something in farm life beyond the routine of general field work. 

 The seed required for a kitchen garden can be divided into two groups those to be started 

 under glass and those for the open ground. Of the former the most important are : 

 cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, lettuce, onions and celery. The following observations 

 may be of help to those who have never had any experience in the construction of a 

 hot-bed or cold frame. 



THE HOT-BED. 



A hot-bed should be located where protection can be had from the cold north and 

 westerly winds. A southern exposure protected on the north by a building, tight fence 

 or a hedge will furnish a desirable spot. 



Horse-stable manure is the best to produce a good reliable steady heat, this should 

 not be "fire-fanged" nor should it contain too much straw. Sufficient to make a bed 

 7 feet square and 18 inches deep is taken to the spot selected and put in a good square 

 pile. Any dry parts of this manure should be mixed with the wet, and in some cases it 

 is advisable to use water to make all parts of as even a dampness as possible. All parts 

 of this pile should be firmed alike, if this is neglected the less firm parts will be liable to 

 burn out while the more compact will just begin to generate a heat. This pile should be 

 left for 6 or 8 days, or until its steaming indicates that fermentation is well under way, 

 when it should be forked over again and made into a similar pile. In 3 or 4 days the 

 manure will be ready for the permanent bed. When placing the manure in the bed see 

 that all the parts are firmed alike in order that the heat may be generated evenly 

 and thus uniformity of temperature secured. 



The frame to place upon the bed to support the sashes should be 6 feet square. 

 Boards 1 J inches thick are good material for the construction of a frame. Make the 

 front 12 inches high and the back 18 inches, thus giving 6 inches for a southern slope to 

 the sash. Bank the frame well around the outside with strawy manure, and inside put 5 

 inches of earth. The soil used should be a light loam of good quality. A good plan is 

 to make a pile for this pu-rpose the previous fall and cover it with strawy manure to 

 keep it from freezing. 



The above frame would support 2 sashes 3x6 feet in size. These would hold 3 

 rows of 10 X 12 inch glass. No cross bars are used, but bars running the length of the 

 sash hold the glass. The lights are lapped like shingles about | inch. 



After the bed is finished allow it to stand for a few days ventilating it occasionally 

 to allow the rank steam to go off. Often the temperature in a newly made bed will 



