128 



The Couniiy Gcntkiv'oiiian 



also frequently worn over long silk dresses, 

 and thus complete a very elegant toilet. 



Printed cambric or muslin may also be 

 used instead of gaze de Chambe'ry for dresses, 

 with fichus or mantelets to match 



But the most useful of all materials for 

 summer wear is black grenadine, and as that 

 is also very fashionable this year, we strongly 

 recommend it to those ladies who wish to 

 study economy as well as elegance. 



An old black silk dress will make a capital 

 lining, or rather under-slip, for a black grena- 

 dine dress. The silk skirt should be trimmed 

 round the bottom with a deep box-plaited 

 flounce of grenadine. It is very much the 

 fashion to trim a black grenadine dress with 

 pipings of coloured silk — gold, yellow, and 

 Sultan red are favourite tints. 



For instance, a dress of black grenadine, 

 to Avear over an under- skirt such as that 

 above described, has a rather short skirt, 

 rounded off, and slit open at the back, piped 

 with gold-yellow silk and edged with black 

 silk fringe. The bodice has a pretty pelerine, 

 open in the middle of the back, and pointed 

 in front, wide demi-long sleeves, and basques 

 in front. Pelerine, sleeves, and basques are 

 trimmed with yellow silk pipings and black 

 fringe. A sash of grenadine, piped with 

 yellow silk, is tied round the waist : the 

 lappets fall in the open space at the back of 

 the skirt. The dress-skirt is slightly looped 

 up at the sides, with short bows of grenadine 

 piped with silk. The lappets of the sash are 

 finished off with a fringe. 



With the Louis XV. costumes the pannier 

 jupon is indispensable. Under-skirts are 

 things not to be overlooked in the toilet. 

 Crinolines are transformed, not given up. 

 The modern jupon is fully puffed out at the 

 back and sides ; this fashion is not becom- 

 ing to all figures — but what fashion ever Avas? 

 It gives a very graceful tournure to tall, slight 

 ladies, and, at any rate, it suits a far greater 

 number of figures than did the Empire dress, 

 which rendered them all, without exception, 

 stiff and ungainly. 



Of all articles of the female toilet the bon- 

 net is that which still leaves the most scope 

 to fancy. Small and coquettish as they are 



now, they are sometimes quite artistic in 

 style and shape. 



The following are some of the prettiest 

 among the latest models : — 



A diadem bonnet, all of white blonde, with 

 a bandeau and aigrette of cut garnets, and a 

 white curled ostrich feather. 



Another, of straw-coloured Spanish blonde, 

 with a garland of yellow rosebuds over a 

 bouillon of tulle in front. On one side a 

 bunch of rosebuds, with trailing sprays of 

 brown metallic foliage, and a bow of straw- 

 coloured ribbon at the back. 



A baby bonnet of black crinoline, orna- 

 mented with a ruche of black lace, with a 

 diadem of white heather blossom. Black 

 blonde lappets are fastened with a spray of 

 the same flowers. 



A white chip bonnet, with a maize-coloured 

 tulle scarf. A bunch of black grapes and 

 vine-leaves is placed upon the crown of the 

 bonnet, and continued in trailing sprays at 

 the back. In front there is a diadem of 

 black grapes and maize tulle. 



A Watteau hat of silvery white fancy straw, 

 trimmed with a scarf of light blue tulle and a 

 bunch of field-flowers. 



And a Louis XV. hat of black straw, with 

 a coronet of black feathers fastened round the 

 crown with stars of cut jet, and a bunch of 

 roses of all colours on one side. 



Several round hats are made of black lace, 

 with jet ornaments and a bunch of green 

 leaves or of feathers. 



Black tulle and blond bonnets are also 

 very fashionable to wear with any dress, with 

 flowers to correspond in colour with the 

 trimming. The shape is generally the 

 diadem, rising high above the forehead. 



A black bonnet or hat is very useful in 

 these days, when, if not black or white, either 

 hat or bonnet must be of the same colour as 

 the dress. 



The same may be said of every detail of 

 the toilet — the boots, gloves, and parasol. 



For the country or seaside, foulard parasols 

 lined with red or blue, and cut out round the 

 edge in rose-leaf scallops or tulip petals, or 

 else with pinked-out ruches, are very fashion- 

 able. 



