3r8 



The Country Gcntlcwovian 



stripes, or small embroidered spots. They 

 may be made plain, but it is better if they 

 are cut with tunic turned up, en paniers. 

 There are more than twenty different man- 

 ners of relieving these robes. The Abeille 

 tunic is one of the prettiest forms : it is orna- 

 mented all round by a small volant, or a ruche 

 embroidered with Valenciennes lace, and with 

 the aid of a gauze, sewn under the tunic, 

 turned up in three parts, in front, behind, and 

 on the sides. On the sides only, a large 

 knot and a bow are set. The ends of the 

 sash must fall on the skirt below the tunic. 

 The Abeille tunic may be made in alpaca, 

 Sultana, taffeta, or cashmere. It may be 

 made less easily with heavy stuffs, but it is 

 not necessary to think of this at present. 



A more economical fancy is the new striped 

 jupons ; they are of white Sultana with satined 

 thread — cerise, blue, pansy, light green, 

 maroon. A large Marie Antoinette volant is 

 set at the bottom. Above these jupons one 

 may wear whatever they like — polonaises or 

 Watteaus in plain lawn, white pique, or 

 coloured jaconets, foulard. Sultanas, Alge- 

 rines, or taffeta. 



The polonaise is buttoned the whole length, 

 with mother-o'-pearl or passementerie buttons. 

 It is rounded in front, and edged by a small 

 volant. The ornament rises on the sides. 

 It is gathered at the waist under a large sash. 



The Watteau has in the back a single large 

 plait, which falls to the bottom or only to the 

 waist. The sash must always pass under the 

 plait and be attached to the side. 



Many foulards and taffeta are ornamented 

 with tarlatan pipings. This is very neat, and 

 shews good taste. The sash, therefore, must 

 be short, in taffeta, with piping at the bottom. 



Little girls' toilette. — Robe of white foulard 

 striped with blue. Small bodice \ bretelles, 

 ornamented with ruches of azure blue ribbon. 

 Short sleeves. Muslin guimpe with small 

 plaits ornamented by an embroidered entre 

 deux. Sleeves to match. "Wliite stockings. 

 Boots of French blue satin, buttoned with 

 mother-o'-pearl. 



Robe of plain linen trimmed in the bottom 

 by a plait; on the plait a white galloon 

 Marie Antoinette fichu with a round pelerine 



and large pattes. Toquet of maroon straw, 

 ornamented by a scarf of black embroidered 

 tulle rolled round the calotte. White bodice, 

 with fine pique linen, and sleeves and linen 

 cuffs. Boots of plain Russia leather. 



Costume for little girl of Scotch poplin^ 

 ornamented on the skirt with cerise velvet. 

 Small pocket in cushion form. Bodice of 

 Scotch poplin with veste above, cut quite 

 straight, and not coming lower than the waist,, 

 and encircling with cerise velvet. Collar and 

 sleeves of pique lawn. Hat of straw, orna- 

 mented by black velvet and wild flowers. 



Boys' toilette. — Small skirt with flat plaits 

 in light blue fancy sailor cloth. Bow of blue 

 gros grain taffeta on the sides of the skirt. 

 Coat with small pockets ornamented by gal- 

 loons, and each galloon by silver lozenges. 

 Lozenges of silver, buttoning the coat. On 

 the sleeves three galloons, terminated by a 

 silver lozenge. Large linen collar. Hat of 

 straw, with blue ribbon. 



Concert toilette.— Robe of white gauze, set 

 on a transparent of mauve taffeta. The robe 

 is relieved on the sides by bows of mauve 

 taffeta. An entre deux of lace, under which 

 is passed a mauve taffeta ribbon, and a volant 

 of white lace ornaments the robe all round. 

 Mauve decollete bodice. High bodice of 

 white gauze, with a lace entre deux, with 

 mauve ribbons passed underneath. White 

 lace jockey ; double entre deux at the bottom 

 of the sleeve, with small knot on the cuff. 

 Around the neck mauve ribbon, and small 

 knot on the collar. This robe has a large 

 flat plait in the back. The sash passes under 

 the plait ; it forms two coques of large mauve 

 ribbon ; a coque on each side of the plait. 

 Small mauve flowers in the hair. 



Dinner toilette. — Robe of light green 

 taffeta. This robe has a tunic, relieved in 

 panniers by a cord of green silk, with tassels 

 on each side. Second skirt with train re- 

 lieved in the middle by a cord tied under the 

 skirit. First skirt of light green taffeta, edged 

 by a ruche flower of cut taffeta. Square 

 de'collete bodice edged by a cut ruche flower. 

 Short sleeves. Gimp of white plaited muslin 

 with ruche of lace around. Muslin sleeves 

 pufling at the elbow. 



