The Apple in Oregon. 135 



way the guide is fastened in such position that the notch is over the 

 spot in which a tree is to be set. Now remove the guide, leaving the 

 three stakes in position. Pull out the center stake, dig the hole for 

 the tree, place the guide in position, with holes B B over the two 

 outside stakes; put the tree in position, so that it occupies the notch A. 

 Cover the roots with earth, firmly pressing it with the feet. When the 

 hole is filled and the tree sets firmly, remove the guide, pull up the 

 two end stakes and repeat with next tree. If the work is carefully 

 done, the trees should line up as well as the stakes did. Trees having 

 irregulär trunks must be so set that the general line of growth will 

 be in position. If there is a likelihood of strong wind prevailing from 

 a definite quarter during the first few years' growth of the trees, they 

 should be so planted as to lean firmly in the direction of the wind. 



The trees should be so set that when the soil about them fully settles 

 they will still be in the ground as deep, or, better, two or three inches 

 deeper than before removal from the nursery. 



The hole into which the young tree is transplanted should be made 

 large enough so that all roots may assume a fully extending and spread- 

 ing Position. No roots should be placed in a curled or twisted position. 

 The center of the hole should be higher than the margin. This will 

 allow the roots to assume a natura! position, slightly downward and 

 outward. The earth that is placed immediately in contact with the roots 

 should be finely pulverized and pressed down firmly. For this purpose 

 the feet may be effectively used, care being exercised that no injury is 

 done the roots b ytramping directly upon them. When the hole is about 

 half filled no further pressure is needed, and the soil may be thrown 

 in loosely, finishing by heaping it up about the trunk five or six inches 

 above the general surface. 



In sections where more or less frost accompanies the winter season, 

 fall-planted trees may be rendered good Service by the addition of a 

 coarse mulch to the surface of the soil, but under no conditions allow 

 the mulch to Surround the trees closely, otherwise rodents may infest 

 it and "bark" the tree. If it is spread upon the ground, and then a 

 small niound of earth, as before stated, surrounds the tree, thus pre- 

 venting the mulch material from Coming in contact with it, damage 

 from the small gnawing animals may be fully prevented. 



POLLI NATION. 



During recent years no one phase of orcharding has received more 

 thought than that of pollination. Though more or less regarded bv 

 the leading horticulturists of the past, at least since Knight's time, 

 this subject i-ose to one of paramount importance upon the publication 

 of a builetin upon the poUination of the pear by M. B. Waite in 1893. 

 Since the appearance of this buUet'n many observations have been made 

 upon this very important subject, and all have tended to prove the 

 importance of it. Today no intelligent orchardist contemplates planting 

 varieties until he has fully investigated their self-sterility or self- 

 fertility and their fitness for cross-fertilization. However, it must not 

 be understood that all failures of crop can be ascribed to the impotency 

 of pollen. Nor that the pollen of relatively shy bearers like the 

 Spitzenberg or Northern Spy is altogether impotent, for it is known 

 that in many instances the pollen of such varieties is efficient as a 

 fertilizer. 



Then, agam, local climatic, soil, seasonal, or other conditions may 

 be such that the pollen of some individuals or varieties may be impotent 

 one season, while fully effective the following or subsequent years. 

 This fact is particularly evidenced in the conduct, one season with 

 another, of the Italian prune. Large blocks of this fruit are to be 



