manure are someitimes desirable on both sand and clay, thirty to forty tons per 

 acre not being considered too heavy. 



While plenty of moisture is very desirable, standing water is very harmful. 

 Strawberry plants are always weakened by being under water, even for a few 

 hours, and m'any times they do not survive the shock. A water-logged or puddled 

 soil is not desirable for the same reason that it is not desirable for other plants. 



In the experience of the writer the fruit from the clay sioils is sweetest, but 

 comiparatively smaller tban the fruit from tbe lighter soils. Generally also the 

 picking season is about one week shorter. 



Underdraimage will improve most soils for the production of strawberries 

 and especially clay soils that are inclined to puddle. 



Preparation of the Soil. — Begin to prepare the land at least one year 

 previous to planting. If the field is in sod fall plow and grow a crop of corn, 

 potatoes or roots. A heavy applioation of farmyard manure may be applied for 

 this crop, because then an opportunity is afforded to free the soil from any weed 

 seeds th'at miay be added with the manure. Fall plow again, and if a second 

 dressing of manure is to he applied, let it be either in late fall or in ^vinter. The 

 manure wnll then work into the soil much better. Any manure that is applied 

 when the field is being prepared for the plants in the spring should be well 

 rotied, because strawy manure tends to loosen and dry out the soil, especially if 

 the season is unfavorable. In most cases it is not advisable to use a sod at all, 

 especially if it is inclined to be tough from age. Strawberries, like other crops, 

 should 1)0 in a regular place in a rotation. The grower then knows what is com- 

 ing and begins to prepare the ground much in advance of the crop. A good one 

 year clover sod is the choice next to a well-manured piece of land that has been 

 under cultivation several years. This should be fall plowed and manured in the 

 winter. The only serious objection lies in the fact that such lands are often 

 infested with White Grubs. A two-year sod or older is even less desirable than a 

 one year. 



Bone meaj, muriate of potash or wood ashes may be added with the final 

 cultivation before planting. Cultivate thoroughly about two and a half or three 

 inches deep so that all manure is thoroughly incorporated with the soil. The soil 

 cannot be in too fine tilth for the plants. Land that is infested with couch grass, 

 chickweed or any other serious pes(t should not be used. 



Marking.- — The marking out of the field is accoanplished in various ways 

 as the marking depends on the manner in which the plants are to be set. The old 

 way of plowing a furrow, spreading the roots of the plants on the bottom or against 

 the side of the furrow and covering by hand is no longer largely practised by the 

 best growers. A field marker, such as is used for corn, but set the proper ^vidth, 

 is the quickest way. There is no necessity of marking deeply. If the soil is 

 somewhat dry on top rolling ahead of the marker with a land roller will tend 

 to bring the moisture to the surface and fewer plants will be lost if set in moist 

 soil. Do not roll a clay that is likely to pack. The cultivator must, however, follow 

 the planting as soon as possible, and as close to the plants as posisible, without 

 covering, to check evaporation. 



The distance of planting varies all the way from tliree to four feet between 

 the rows. At four feet apart the plants are set from fifteen to twenty-four inches 

 apart in the rows; eighteen or twenty inches is a good average. With three feet 

 between the rows, the plants are set from two to three feet ar[:)art in the rows. 

 This latter distance has the advantage of making a large number of comparatively 

 narrow rows, when the plants have ceased running, instead of fewer comparatively 



