8 



If the method of taking the cuttings in August or the heginning of Sep- 

 tember and planting right in the nursery row is followed, they will be ready 

 to start a good growth the following spring — providing the fall has been favorable. 

 It is well, however, to cover the cuttings with a strong mulch to prevent heaving 

 caused through intermittent freezing and thawing of the ground. The cuttings 

 are placed six to eight inches apart in furrows about three feet apart, and in a 

 well-drained location where there is no danger of standing water at any time. 

 The furrow should be deep enough so that only the top bud or two of the cutting 

 is above ground. This in important as the more of the cutting there is below 

 ground, the more roots will be formed and the stronger the plant will be. There 

 is also danger of the cutting drying out too much before rooting if too much 

 of it is exposed. Place the cutting in the furrow in a slanting position and firm 

 the earth well about them. In a favorable season these cuttings should callus well 

 before winter and perhaps throw out a few roots. During the winter it is advis- 

 able to mulch the cutting well as previously stated. Cultivation should be thor- 

 ough and should begin as early in spring as possible, and be continued throughout 

 the season. 



If the cuttings are heeled in over the winter, they should be tied in bundles 

 and buried upside down with soil to the depth of two or three inches over 

 them. This heeling in upside down induces callusing of the cutting as the base 

 is nearer the surface than if right side up, and gets more heat and air. In a 

 few weeks the cuttings should have callused well, and they may be left here 

 over winter if a little more soil is spread over them to prevent them drying 

 out; or if the season is favorable, they may be planted out in the nursery; or 

 they may be buried in sand or sawdust over winter in a cool cellar. 



The method, however, which I think has most to recommend it, is that fol- 

 lowed by Mr. Henry. It involves less labor and handling of the cuttings, and 

 there is no danger, either, of the cuttings becoming harmed through bad weather 

 conditions during the winter. Also, if one may judge from the plantations of 

 enttings and currants on Mr. Henry's place, it produces plants as good as, or better 

 than any other method. 



The Gooseberry. — Gooseberries are propagated by cuttings and by layering. 

 As cuttings are apt to be very unsatisfactory, being hard to start into growth, 

 layering is probably the safest and best method to use. Propagation by cuttings 

 would be essentially the same as for the currant so that it need not be again 

 discussed. American varieties give fairly satisfactory results by the cutting method. 

 Both English and American varieties are sometimes propagated from green wood 

 cuttings in greenhouses. 



Where mound-layering or layering, as it is more commonly called is practised 

 the bushes should be pruned severely in the autumn. This will induce a strong 

 growth of young wood the following season. Early in July when these shoots 

 have about completed their growth, earth is heaped around and through the bushes, 

 most of which operation can conveniently be done with the use of a plow. The 

 work is completed by heaping up earth until only the tips of the shoots are above 

 ground. The earth is then well packed leaving a mulch of loose soil on top to 

 conserve the moisture. 



American varieties will have rooted well by autumn, when the separate plants 

 may be transplanted to the nursery row at once or left till the following spring. 

 English varieties will not be ready for transplanting till the following autumn 

 as they usually take a year longer to root well. As with the American varieties, 



