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that were 60 per cent, fertile; and, moreover, we would figure on raising a much 

 larger percentage of chicks from the former eggs than from the latter, owing to the 

 chicks being stronger and having greater vitality. 



Setting the Hen. — It is generally agreed that, in order to secure a good hatch, 

 the hen must be placed where other hens are not likely to disturb her; for, as a 

 rule, we seldom get good hatches where other hens lay in the nest with the sitter. 

 Some farmers do not set a hen until one becomes broody on a nest where no others 

 lay, which often necessitates late chicks. The difficulty can be overcome by making 

 a new nest for the broody hen. Get a box about twelve inches square and six inches 

 deep; put some earth, or an overturned sod in the bottom, taking care to have the 

 corners very full so that no eggs can roll out from the hen and get chilled; next 

 put on about two inches of straw or chaff; and then put a few earthen eggs into the 

 nest. Place the nest in some pen where nothing can disturb the hen, and put her 

 on after dark. Feed and water must be within easy reach and a dust bath should 

 also be convenient. If the hen is sitting quiet the next day, you will be safe in 

 putting the eggs under her. In our experience we get 90 per cent, of the hens to 

 sit by following this method. 



It should be remembered that the hen will be in better condition if dusted with 

 insect powder when set, and also a few days before the hatch comes off. This will 

 usually keep the lice in check, especially if some tansy or mint leaves are used in 

 making the nest. 



Artificial Incubation. 



During recent years many incubator experiments have been conducted here as 

 well as at other colleges, and some progress has been made. It is our purpose at this 

 time, not so much to go into the details' of these, but to give, if possible, the best 

 methods we know, that can be used by the average person. 



Selecting an Incubator. — There are many makes of incubators on the market, 

 that do fairly good work ; they are not perfect, nor have they the hatching power of 

 a normal hen, but then they are always ready to hatch eggs in any day of the year, 

 and by their use eggs can he incubated in large numbers. They do not get balky, 

 and cease hatching as some hens do — that is, unless the operator fails to do his part. 

 Commercially they are a necessity. To the prospective buyer I would suggest the 

 purchasing of a well built machine, one that is double cased, and that is easily 

 cleaned, and whose fixtures, such as the lamps, etc., are convenient. I do not know 

 which is the best incubator made. 



Eecent scientific investigations indicate that it is probable, in some instances, 

 that disease organisms, found in dirty incubators, cause serious harm. Our plan- 

 no matter what the type of machine — is to thoroughly wash the entire interior of 

 every machine before putting in the eggs for hatching. We use a ten per cent, 

 solution of a tarry compound, such as Creoline or Zenoleum. This helps to clean 

 the machine, and if applied hot, so much the better. We have obtained best results 

 by using water or moisture during the entire hatch. I have seen good hatches from 

 incubators where no moisture was used. ^Ye use a pan beneath the egg-tray, nearly 

 the full size of the machine, and keep this pan covered with water, or wet sand, not 

 more than one inch in depth. 



Many incubator thermometers are not reliable, and it is, therefore, advisable 

 each season to have the thermometers tested; any druggist will have a registered 

 thermometer, and can do the testing if the owner does not wish to. 



The hatch is made or lost usually during the first week of incubation. Keep 

 the temperature well up to 103 deg., with the thermometer lying on the eggs, and 

 maintain as even a temperature as possible. 



