the very best materials. This should be of concrete, as a permanent structure is 

 required, and as a rule should be eight inches in thickness and should be set in the 

 ground sufficient depth to give a good foundation and be below the frost line. The 

 walls should be of concrete, wood, wood and shingles, or siding or concrete blocks. 

 As a rule the walls are not built higher than two feet, while some prefer them three 

 and others wish only one foot of wall, the remainder being of glass. Twenty-four 

 inches of a solid wall seems to be about the right height, and this allows four feet 

 for side wall ventilation purposes where six feet eaves are used. Wood in any form 

 is rapidly heing replaced with some form of concrete, either solid or as concrete 

 blocks. Both forms are substantial, and Avill give satisfaction. Some growers 

 prefer the concrete blocks hecaase they can make them during the winter months 

 when not husy. The only point to remember in making blocks is to make them 

 so as to fit exactly to the pipe or iron gutter supports. Concrete work of any de- 

 scription should be carefully done so as to give the outside walls an attractive 

 appearance. As the foundation is to be lasting it should be smooth and imiform, 

 so that the whole plant will have a pleasing appearance. Some growers prefer a 

 three-foot wall of solid concrete, and while this is not advisable on account of the 

 need of plenty of side ventilation, those Avho so desire should leave openings about 

 every ten feet in order to facilitate the handling of rhubarb roots, manure, or soil. 

 These should be fixed with a small door and should be built so as to fit snugly. 

 Much time can be saved by the use of these doors in bringing in the season's supply 

 of rhubarb roots or new manure for the beds or benches. 



DEAINAGE. 



Some soils require drainage around the walls to prevent frost action. These 

 should be of 2 or 2^/2 inch tile and set at base of foundation on the outside. Care 

 should be taken to secure a good outlet for these drains. These drains are usually set 

 one foot away from wall. Some growers use posts for their side wall supports. 

 These are only adWsable under certain conditions. Where only a temporary house 

 is needed whole cedar posts set 3 ft. in the ground, 4 ft. apart, are what are usually 

 used. Tile drains are needed both inside and out, as mentioned hefore. In these 

 houses the walls are usually sheeted with inch lumber, then grey building paper one 

 thickness and clap boards, or Manitoba sheeting or shingles used for the outside. 

 Shingles are not advised because they will curl with the sun's heat. Clap boards 

 or siding cost practically the same and will last longer and give less trouble. Tar 

 paper should never be used on the walls as the fumes will kill the plants inside. 



HEIGHT OF EAVES. 



During the past five years there has arisen considerable controversy among 

 greenhouse builders and growers as to what was the best height at which to have 

 the eaves. Here, again, there seems to he various opinions which suit only in- 

 dividual conditions. Years ago it was considered almost necessary to have no side 

 to the greenhouse at all, running the sash bars doAvn to the plate, which was 

 nearly always set on top of the ground. Since then great advances have been made 

 in construction and we now find greenhouses and oaves ten feet from the surface 

 of the ground. This is rather high, and is the iflea of one man, and he claims he 

 has the best. It is quite common to sec eaves six to six and one-half and seven 

 feet in height in large commercial plants. This, as with many other points in 



