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slat and the back prevents the droppings from collecting- and decom- 

 posing. The slats on the top and back are usually two inches apart. 



There is a small V-shaped trough arranged in front of the coop 

 for feeding and watering the chickens. This trough is from two to 

 three inches deep and is generally made of f-inch lumber. 



Very fair coops may be made from old packing boxes, by taking 

 off the front and bottom, and substituting slats in their places, (see 

 Fig. 21). During warm weather, these crates may be placed out of 

 doors. They need to be protected from the rain, which is easily ac- 

 complished by placing a few boards over them. In cold weather the 

 crates should be placed in a house or shed where they are protected 

 from raw, cold winds. When fattening chickens inside of a building, it 

 is well to darken the building and keep the birds as quiet as possible. 



Fig. 21. Showing a single crate or coop. 



After each lot of birds is killed, we paint the crates with some 

 liquid lice-killer. Coal-oil and carbolic acid is very good. Use one 

 gallon of coal oil to one pint of crude acid. We have used some of the 

 prepared mixtures with good results. If the birds (bought from differ- 

 ent parties) are very lousy when put up, they should be well dusted 

 with sulphur. The birds should be watered at least twice every day in 

 warm weather. Grit should be given them twice a week. 



During the first week feed lightly — never quite all the birds will 

 eat. I prefer feeding three times a day during the first week, and 

 twice a day during the succeeding weeks. It seldom pays to feed the 

 birds longer than three or four weeks. Chickens weighing from three 

 to three and one-half pounds each, that are thrifty and of good breed- 

 ing, appear to be the most profitable for feeding. Large chickens, 

 weighing from five to six pounds, gain less and eat more than smaller 

 ones. 



