No. 6. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 839 



with a northeast outlook, so that the village experiences a very 

 short day, and lies in the shadow of the cliffs most of the time. 

 This adds to the sombre, damp and chilly aspect and feeling of the 

 place. As often occiu-s in limestone formations, the mountain be- 

 hind the town is full of fissures, caverns and passages. And through 

 these caves there are strong currents of cool, moist air, and little 

 streams of water. The temperature of these caves is about 45 de- 

 grees F., varying only a few degrees throughout the year. The 

 water flowing from numerous springs, sometimes passing through 

 dwellings or factories, hns just about the temperature that is ordi- 

 narily recognized as "icewater," 



These natural caves, and their uniform atmospheric conditions, 

 explain the location of this unique town. The circumstances ap- 

 pear exactly suited to the slow-curing process and the growth of 

 the blue mold (Penicillium Glaucum) which give the characteristics 

 to the famous cheese of Roquefort. Perhaps it would be more cor- 

 rect to say that these local conditions create or make possible the 

 peculiarities of Roquefort cheese. But the important fact must 

 also be taken into account that this cheese is made from the milk 

 of ewes instead of cows. The milk of sheep contributes additional 

 peculiarities, being especially rich in fat, abundant in casein and 

 having characteristic flavors. 



Roquefort is said to have 'been first settled in the time of Charle- 

 magne. It is certain that cheese was made by many peasants in 

 this region, from sheep's milk, in the early centuries, and carried 

 to the caves of Roquefort to be finished and cured for market. The 

 history of the industry from the 11th century to the present time 

 seems to be unbroken and indisputable. iS^or has time made great 

 changes in the process of making and the character and quality 

 of the cheese itself. Economies in production have been developed, 

 however. Formerly 3,000 or more peasants, or owners of sheep, 

 made the cheese in as many dairies, scattered over a wide area. 

 These cheeses were taken to Roquefort and cared for by the in- 

 habitants of the little village in an unsystematic way, in the moun- 

 tain caves of various, sizes, numbering altogether perhaps two 

 hundred. Gradually, there has come about a union of the cave 

 owners and managers, until the business of Roquefort is practically 

 controlled by two large companies. Only four of the largest of the 

 natural caves are now used, these being supplemented by several 

 ponderous buildings of stone, several stories in height, and which 

 include immense vaults or artificial caves, tier upon tier, to w'hich 

 the air currents from the mountain caverns are admitted by tunnels, 

 in ways which secure some desirable difference in temperature and 

 moisture, in different apartments. At the same time co-operation 

 has been effected in the early stages of manufacture. Dairies (lai- 



