MY METHODS OF PLANTING SMALL FRUITS 121 



difference if you study it a little. Because where the fruit buds come, 

 you will find that joint to be a little off shape, and sometimes a little 

 proturberance there, like it were going to start a horn. I remember one 

 time about ten years ago, in speaking of our Moore's Early, that we 

 were getting some six to ten baskets off from a single vine, I received 

 letters from fellows in Wisconsin, Illinois, and ^Michigan, wanting to 

 know how to get the ]\Ioore's Early to bear. I found that quite often 

 people could not get their Moore's Early to bear. They will if you 

 treat them according to their nature. Soil should not be too rich in 

 nitrogen for the grapes. 



Raspberries do very well all over the state. Of course, much 

 better in the eastern and northern part. Just the opposite of what 

 you have with the grape is true with the planting of the raspberry. 

 This is a plant we took out of the ground the other day, (indicating a 

 plant on the table). The roots should have been there, but they are 

 not. The best way to plant a raspberry is not to be so partic- 

 ular. "Lay it down and kick a little dirt over it with your foot, and 

 it is liable to come up better than if you took more pains. You must 

 not pack the ground over the crown of the plant. Grapes die because 

 they are planted too shallow; raspberries, because they are planted 

 too deep. Never plant them more than three inches deep, or any deeper 

 than they were in the nursery row. 



The little cane you receive with a raspberry tip dies before snow 

 flies, so it is only valuable to mark the spot where the plant is set. 

 You must depend on the new shoot from the crown to perpetuate the 

 life of the plant. Raspberries start from a bud on the crown beneath 

 the surface and if the soil is packed firm, the tender shoot can not 

 break through, the original cane endures but for a season and 

 the entire plant is dead. Where you can, the best way to do is to go 

 to the nursery and take up the plants with a small shovelful of 

 dirt and transplant. They can be successfully planted in this way, 

 even after six inches of growth has started. 



Now as to varieties. I like the Plum Farmer better than anything 

 I have and the Cumberland comes next. The former is really 

 the best of anything, I can get hold of now, but the berries are small. 

 Then the Cardinals do well in some parts of the state, but in others 

 they are a failure. Father Harrison told me it was impossible 

 for him to have a Cardinal at York, and that they never did any good 

 at all. But I have a Cardinal bed that has been out 14 years and it 

 has always been good. Up in the northwest, near Hay Springs, they 

 say that the Cardinal is the best thing they can get hoia or, and that 

 none of the blacks do any good up there. Those varieties, the Cardinal, 

 the Plum Farmer, and the Cumberlands are the best varieties. 



If you are close to a nursery and can do it, I would advise you 

 to go to the nursery and get the plants, and wait until they are up 

 nicely. In doing that, take up a good bunch of dirt and take home 

 with you, and you will be almost sure to get a good plant. Of course. 



