THE SIDE HILL ORCHARD. 195 



ing with the exception of one grass run that carried the water gathered 

 above the orchard which was too great to be diverted. 



The owner of the orchard must know the meaning of the word 

 care. He must have a liking for trees, study them as a doctor studies 

 his patient. By doing the work needed at tlie proper time he will be 

 successful. 



Pruning is the most important work to be done both in the dormant 

 state and growing season not forgetting to cover all wounds that expose 

 the wood with wax not paint. Use a cheap mixture of four quarts 

 Resin, one quart Raw Linseed Oil. 



Mix in a pail and boil together. Stir thoroughly while boiling. 

 After partly cooling apply with a paint brush, the round metal bound 

 brush costing fifty cents. 



Most articles on pruning advanced by our experimental station 

 and demonstrated at our meetings describe the ideal. We must get as 

 near to that as possible. 



The work of thinning is commenced by trimming either in March 

 or June disposing of surplus wood. There are many who advise 

 thinning soon after set fruit turns, I do not think this practical but 

 prefer to pick off the largest, best colored fruit in July and August and 

 sell for cooking, leaving as much as will mature without injury to the 

 tree. 



Part of our side hill orchard is in grass and part will grow weeds. 

 The removal of this is important as it is a harbor for mice and impede* 

 the harvesting of the crop. To remove this by hand is expensive. I 

 believe it could be done by sheep if followed by a competent person 

 starting early in the season. The sheep would go over the orchard 

 when hungry and not molest the trees. I have not proved my theory 

 but have only suggested it. 



While the rocks below the subsoil and those mixed with the sub- 

 soil furnish the best drainage the moisture from above must be led to 

 the trees through a cultivated surface. The terraces are a double 

 benefit furnishing shelter from the sun and absorbing moisture. 



There is a caution in the selection of land. Ravines that have no 

 air channels and where frost is known to settle should be avoided. 

 Cold air is heavier than warm air and settles to the lower ground. 



Selection of site and exposure can avail nothing unless the trees 

 are treated individually and pruned to change leaf buds to fruit buds. 

 Too rapid growth can be checked by stopping cultivation in August 

 and July. 



I have used lime-sulphur for dormant spray, twelve gallons to 

 200 gallons of water applied in March. Second spray when blossom 

 buds are beginning to show pink, nine gallons lime-sulphur, twelve 

 pounds arsenate of lead to 200 gallons of water. Third spray when 

 petals fall and before calyx closes using same mixture as second spray. 

 I have found three sprays sufficient. 



