33:' A.WNUAL. KEPOKT OF THE Off. Doc. 



Goldeu, tiie borers or something kills the bark aud they die. If 

 grafted up, I would want to have them, especially the Hosier, which 

 comes in well in the spring. I don't think as much of the Smoke- 

 house and Greening as formerly; the Greening grows too large for 

 me, and not enough of them on the tree. I think we are a little far 

 south for them, and about as far south as the Baldwin and Northern 

 Spy will do their best. York Imperial, I want a few for long keepers, 

 and to remember my good friend from York county, who wants his 

 apple sauce in suits. Ben Davis, I have them now, and some here; 

 don't want to plant any more of them; they are coarse, rough, light 

 in weight, I think, and don't handle like any other apple in the or- 

 chard. I found out this fall, in picking, that the birds would not 

 eat them like they did other apples on the trees. I found they tried 

 or sampled one and quit; this is one thing in their favor. Newtown 

 IMppin is a good, long keeper; tree a ver}^ slow grower, not as 

 profitable as many others. White Pippin is a more productive apple, 

 and a good keeper and bearer, as well as a great grower, 

 and called for in market when known. We have some more good 

 varieties for winter in our locality, however, I have mentioned 

 enough, as we want only the best and most profitable, and not too 

 many varieties. 



HOW TO PLANT THE APPLE. 



Select a high location, as far from the creeks or bottom land as 

 is possible to avoid late spring frosts. Take good, dry, deep, rich 

 soil, or make it so by drainage, plowing lime and manure; it won't 

 pay to wait on poor, thin, wet soil to grow trees. Order thrifty, 

 low top, two-year-old trees, with good roots — and by cutting back 

 for a few years, we get a good, large, low tree — one you can gather 

 the fruit from fast and easy. Mark out your ground in straight 

 rows, both ways forty feet apart, with a stake for every tree, and 

 with your outside rows ten feet or more from the fence. Take a 

 fence board six feet long with a pin in each end and a notch sawed 

 out on one side in the middle of the board. Take your board and 

 lay it down with the stake in the notch, drive in your pins to make 

 your mark, take away the board and stake and dig a hole for the 

 tree, which should be plenty large and deep enough to fill with some 

 rich surface soil; set the tree in so that it will be an inch deeper 

 than it was in the nursery, and comes in the notch of the board with 

 the pins in the marks previously made, working the fine soil well 

 around the roots with the hand; tread gently with the foot, and 

 your trees are planted straight both ways and well done. 



Mulching with straw is good in a dry season. Have a stake a 

 foot from the tree on the northwest side to tie the tree to for pro- 

 tection, say forty feet apart; I know it will strike Young America 

 that this is a waste of ground. My oxperionre has proven to me 



