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  A 
  nut 
  orchard 
  ought 
  to 
  have 
  much 
  the 
  same 
  preparation 
  

   as 
  an 
  apple 
  orchard. 
  A 
  practical 
  way 
  would 
  be 
  to 
  plow 
  deeply 
  

   and 
  harrow 
  well 
  in 
  simmier 
  and 
  sow 
  a 
  cover 
  crop 
  like 
  rye 
  and 
  

   vetch 
  or 
  clover. 
  The 
  more 
  stable 
  manure, 
  or 
  other 
  fertilizer, 
  

   applied 
  the 
  better. 
  

  

  Let 
  the 
  field 
  now 
  be 
  staked 
  off 
  thirty 
  feet 
  apart 
  in 
  squares, 
  

   or 
  in 
  triangles 
  if 
  preferred. 
  Late 
  in 
  the 
  fall 
  dig 
  the 
  holes 
  and 
  

   plant 
  nuts, 
  three 
  or 
  four 
  in 
  each 
  hole, 
  two 
  to 
  four 
  inches 
  deep, 
  

   according 
  to 
  size, 
  and 
  six 
  inches 
  apart. 
  Put 
  a 
  good 
  handful 
  of 
  

   ground 
  bone 
  in 
  each 
  hill. 
  Unless 
  the 
  soil 
  and 
  subsoil 
  are 
  mel- 
  

   low, 
  so 
  that 
  the 
  long 
  tap 
  roots 
  may 
  penetrate 
  deeply, 
  it 
  would 
  

   be 
  best 
  to 
  dynamite 
  the 
  holes, 
  using 
  a 
  half 
  pound 
  of 
  20 
  per 
  cent 
  

   or 
  25 
  per 
  cent 
  dynamite 
  at 
  a 
  depth 
  of 
  two 
  and 
  a 
  half 
  feet. 
  This 
  

   is 
  a 
  simple 
  matter 
  and 
  the 
  dynamite 
  companies 
  will 
  furnish 
  

   materials 
  and 
  instructions. 
  It 
  is 
  also 
  some 
  fun. 
  

  

  There 
  is 
  some 
  danger 
  that 
  nuts 
  planted 
  in 
  fall 
  may 
  be 
  de- 
  

   stroyed 
  by 
  rodents, 
  that 
  some 
  will 
  "lie 
  over" 
  and 
  not 
  sprout 
  

   the 
  first 
  year, 
  or 
  that 
  all 
  the 
  nuts 
  in 
  a 
  hill 
  may 
  make 
  inferior 
  

   plants, 
  so 
  that 
  some 
  authorities 
  advise 
  putting 
  them 
  in 
  a 
  gal- 
  

   vanized 
  wire 
  cage, 
  the 
  nuts 
  only 
  half 
  buried, 
  then 
  covered 
  with 
  

   a 
  few 
  leaves 
  during 
  the 
  winter 
  and 
  otherwise 
  left 
  exposed 
  to 
  

   the 
  elements. 
  In 
  the 
  spring 
  they 
  must 
  be 
  taken 
  from 
  the 
  cage 
  

   and 
  planted 
  in 
  the 
  hills 
  before 
  the 
  sprouts 
  are 
  long 
  enough 
  to 
  

   be 
  easily 
  broken. 
  

  

  The 
  different 
  kinds 
  of 
  nuts 
  should 
  be 
  planted 
  in 
  "blocks" 
  

   rather 
  than 
  mingled, 
  to 
  facilitate 
  handling. 
  

  

  These 
  nuts 
  are 
  to 
  furnish 
  trees 
  that 
  are 
  later 
  to 
  be 
  grafted 
  

   or 
  budded. 
  After 
  they 
  have 
  grown 
  a 
  while 
  the 
  weaker 
  ones 
  

   are 
  to 
  be 
  removed, 
  as 
  necessary, 
  until 
  only 
  the 
  strongest 
  remains 
  

   in 
  each 
  hill. 
  When 
  grafted 
  and 
  grown 
  to 
  great 
  size 
  the 
  brave 
  

   man 
  will 
  thin 
  them 
  out 
  to 
  sixty 
  feet 
  apart. 
  Interplanting 
  with 
  

   fruits 
  or 
  vegetables 
  may 
  be 
  practised. 
  

  

  As 
  to 
  the 
  kinds 
  of 
  nuts 
  to 
  be 
  planted 
  that 
  depends 
  on 
  what 
  

   you 
  want 
  to 
  grow. 
  If 
  chestnuts 
  it 
  must 
  be 
  remembered 
  that 
  

   the 
  bark 
  disease 
  is 
  very 
  likely 
  to 
  attack 
  them, 
  in 
  the 
  East 
  at 
  

   any 
  rate. 
  Experiments 
  with 
  chestnuts 
  outside 
  the 
  range 
  of 
  

   the 
  blight 
  are 
  very 
  desirable. 
  The 
  American 
  {Castanea 
  dentata) 
  

   and 
  European 
  (C. 
  saliva) 
  chestnuts 
  are 
  specially 
  susceptible. 
  

   The 
  Asiatic 
  chestnuts 
  (C. 
  Japonica, 
  etc.) 
  seem 
  to 
  have 
  a 
  partial 
  

   immunity, 
  especially 
  the 
  Korean, 
  and 
  it 
  is 
  possible 
  that 
  the 
  

   native 
  chestnut 
  grafted 
  on 
  these 
  may 
  be 
  rendered 
  more 
  or 
  less 
  

   immune. 
  It 
  is 
  being 
  tried 
  and 
  is 
  an 
  interesting 
  experiment. 
  

  

  