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  by 
  transplanting, 
  with 
  loss 
  to 
  the 
  tap 
  roots 
  and 
  laterals. 
  In 
  

   the 
  writer's 
  opinion 
  that 
  natural 
  tap 
  root 
  of 
  the 
  nut 
  tree 
  growing 
  

   down, 
  down 
  to 
  water 
  is 
  not 
  to 
  be 
  treated 
  as 
  of 
  no 
  importance. 
  

  

  So 
  let 
  your 
  seedlings 
  grow 
  up 
  and 
  down 
  happily 
  while 
  you 
  

   get 
  ready 
  the 
  stuff 
  with 
  which 
  to 
  build 
  their 
  future 
  character, 
  

   for 
  seedling 
  trees 
  are 
  very 
  slow 
  in 
  coming 
  into 
  bearing, 
  and 
  un- 
  

   certain 
  in 
  type 
  and 
  quality 
  of 
  nut. 
  Grafted 
  trees 
  bear 
  early 
  

   and 
  true 
  to 
  type. 
  

  

  Take 
  your 
  choicest 
  bit 
  of 
  ground 
  and 
  put 
  it 
  in 
  the 
  best 
  shape 
  

   you 
  know 
  how. 
  Then 
  order 
  the 
  finest 
  grafted 
  trees 
  you 
  can 
  

   find 
  on 
  the 
  market. 
  (See 
  circular 
  on 
  "Seedsmen 
  and 
  Nursery- 
  

   men".) 
  Your 
  choice 
  will 
  be 
  limited 
  for 
  there 
  are 
  as 
  yet 
  only 
  

   a 
  few 
  grafted 
  varieties 
  of 
  the 
  Persian 
  walnut 
  and 
  the 
  Indiana 
  

   pecan, 
  and 
  but 
  one 
  of 
  the 
  shagbark 
  hickory 
  to 
  be 
  had. 
  Of 
  chest- 
  

   nuts 
  there 
  are 
  more 
  and, 
  in 
  the 
  South 
  of 
  course, 
  plenty 
  of 
  pecans. 
  

   But 
  pecan 
  growing 
  in 
  the 
  South 
  is 
  another 
  story. 
  If 
  you 
  order 
  

   chestnuts 
  be 
  sure 
  that 
  they 
  do 
  not 
  come 
  from 
  a 
  nursery 
  infected 
  

   with 
  blight. 
  Get 
  young 
  trees 
  because 
  they 
  are 
  more 
  easily 
  

   established. 
  

  

  Order 
  from 
  two 
  to 
  four 
  of 
  each 
  variety. 
  Fewer 
  than 
  two 
  

   gives 
  too 
  small 
  an 
  allowance 
  for 
  mortality 
  and 
  more 
  than 
  four, 
  

   besides 
  the 
  not 
  inconsiderable 
  strain 
  on 
  the 
  pocket, 
  will 
  divide 
  

   your 
  attention 
  too 
  much; 
  for 
  you 
  have 
  got 
  to 
  give 
  these 
  trees 
  

   the 
  care 
  of 
  a 
  bottle 
  baby. 
  

  

  Set 
  them 
  sixty 
  feet 
  apart 
  if 
  you 
  have 
  the 
  room. 
  If 
  not 
  set 
  

   them 
  closer. 
  Better 
  closer 
  if 
  that 
  means 
  better 
  care. 
  They 
  may 
  

   be 
  set 
  in 
  the 
  fall 
  but 
  probably 
  spring 
  is 
  better, 
  as 
  early 
  as 
  you 
  

   can 
  get 
  them 
  in. 
  Follow 
  the 
  instructions 
  of 
  the 
  nurserymen 
  

   closely. 
  Digging 
  holes 
  with 
  dynamite 
  is 
  probably 
  good 
  practice. 
  

   Put 
  some 
  bone 
  meal 
  in 
  the 
  soil 
  around 
  the 
  roots 
  but 
  no 
  strong 
  

   fertilizer. 
  Some 
  soils 
  need 
  lime. 
  Tamp 
  the 
  soil 
  about 
  the 
  roots 
  

   with 
  all 
  your 
  might. 
  It 
  cannot 
  be 
  made 
  too 
  firm. 
  

  

  Then 
  water 
  them 
  all 
  summer, 
  or 
  until 
  August 
  if 
  they 
  have 
  

   made 
  a 
  good 
  growth. 
  Give 
  them 
  all 
  they 
  can 
  drink 
  once 
  a 
  week. 
  

   Sink 
  a 
  large 
  bar 
  about 
  a 
  foot 
  from 
  the 
  tree 
  and 
  pour 
  the 
  water 
  

   into 
  the 
  hole, 
  as 
  much 
  as 
  the 
  soil 
  will 
  take. 
  

  

  Keep 
  up 
  cultivation 
  and 
  a 
  dust 
  mulch 
  or, 
  if 
  you 
  cannot 
  do 
  

   this, 
  mulch 
  with 
  something 
  else. 
  Mulching 
  doesn't 
  mean 
  a 
  

   wisp 
  of 
  hay 
  but 
  something 
  thick 
  or 
  impervious. 
  Six 
  inches 
  of 
  

   strawy 
  manure, 
  grass, 
  vines 
  or 
  weeds; 
  an 
  old 
  carpet, 
  burlap, 
  

   feed 
  or 
  fertilizer 
  bags 
  or 
  even 
  newspapers, 
  held 
  down 
  with 
  stones 
  

   or 
  weeds 
  or 
  earth, 
  all 
  make 
  good 
  mulches. 
  

  

  