106 



We also found that by cutting the stocks back ahead of grafting 

 we would safely begin grafting considerably earlier and this is quite an 

 advantage where one has much grafting to do. Handled in this way, 

 we have been able to get fairly uniform and good stands of grafts every 

 year, and have the past ten years, so we feel rather safe in saying 

 that we have the matter of propagation on a safe basis and that nut 

 trees of most species at least can be propagated as safely as our more 

 common fruit trees, although the cost of growing the nut trees is, of 

 course, considerably more. 



I have not mentioned budding the nut trees. As a matter of fact 

 we now do little budding, but we did considerable budding before we 

 li.id the matter of controlling the sap in the stocks worked out satisfac- 

 torily, as it was safer to rely on. We still bud the heart nut trees, how- 

 ever, as they are more difficult to graft successfully and we cannot 

 rely on grafting for a supply of these trees. 



Care of the Grafts and Young Trees in the Nursery 

 Grafts will not start unifoVmly, although a large percentage 

 should start growth within three or four weeks, after the grafts are 

 set. The beginning is sometimes puzzled therefore to know how to 

 handle tardy grafts. Continued sprouting of the stock to force the 

 graft into growth will injure the stock if continued too long. On such 

 we allow one shoot to grow from the stock below the graft, leaving this 

 preferably on the south side to get the benefit of the shade. If the 

 o-raft fails to start within a reasonable time vet is still alive, this shoot 

 may be pinched back, leaving a few leaves to take up some of the sap 

 and prevent too much deterioration in the stock. After the graft is well 

 started this shoot can be removed. To play safe against storms and to 

 insure the young trees making up well, they should be staked. We use 

 stakes sawed out of cypress or other good lasting wood. Seven eighths 

 or three fourths inch lumber is ripped into strips 1^ or li inches wide 

 and cut into the lengths desired, usually 4 to 5 feet long. Buds or 

 grafts, when set on good strong stocks, make trees large enough to plant 

 in the permanent orchard in one year, and most of the trees we sell are 

 only one year from the bud or graft. 



I have not mentioned what is commonly called "Top Working" 

 seedling trees. This is simply budding or grafting over the tops of 

 larger trees, usually on the limbs or branches, and trees growing where 

 they can be left to bear. This, too, is fully covered in Dr. Reed's bulle- 

 tins and in Dr. Morris's book, "Nut Growing". 



