FRUITS. 129 



a patch from which I had taken two crops of apple-trees (one 

 too many), the residue of the vines on nursery ground, from 

 which one crop of trees had been taken. Fertilized at plant- 

 ins: with animal manure, afterwards an annual dressinij with 

 ashes or potash and bone. 



I sometimes start with cuttings and layers, but the best 

 method is with single eyes. After several years of slip-shod 

 training, I believe the following to be the best. Commence 

 with one or two year old vines, cut down to two eyes, allow- 

 ing them to grow about as they will, except training them to 

 stakes. In November cut down to two eyes. Second year 

 train same as first. Third year erect a trellis about like those 

 recommended by Mr. Fuller, Dr. Fisher and others, with 

 posts eight feet long, set two and one-half feet into the ground, 

 the end post to be at the first vine, the next post nine feet 

 therefrom and the others six feet apart, bracing the outside 

 post. Rows eight feet apart, vines six feet apart in the rows. 

 Stretch No. 15 or 16 of galvanized wire upon these posts, 

 the loAver wire twenty inches from the ground, the next wire 

 fifteen inches above the first, the third fourteen inches above 

 the second, and the fourth fifteen inches above the third, end- 

 ing the trellis with the fourth wire. Beginning Avith the third 

 year, allow one shoot to grow from each vine. The end vine 

 of the row train to and along the third wire, the arm turning 

 from the post. Next vine carry to the first wire, the next to 

 the third, and so on alternately through the row, all the vines 

 turning the same way. As they grow, nip the laterals at the 

 second leaf, and when the shoots have grown six feet nip the 

 ends off. The autumn pruning consists in cutting off the lat- 

 erals and cutting back the main shoot to good, strong wood. 



At the fourth year, as buds push a shoot each, — if two, rub 

 out one, — and show their clusters of grape-buds, and have 

 made two or three leaves beyond the last cluster, the end of 

 these shoots should be nipped ofi" as soon as they have made 

 sufficient growth and are strong enough not to break, tie them 

 to the second or fourth wire, as the case may be. As laterals 

 start on the upright shoots, pinch in at second the leaf and 

 continue to do this the entire season. Now, the question 

 comes. How much fruit shall I let remain on the vines ? Shall 

 I allow each shoot to start with three or four clusters, and at 

 17* 



