DAIRY PRODUCTS. 117 



but not so as to break down the grain of the butter, and 

 render it greasy. In the Philadelphia method great care, uni- 

 formity, and system characterize all its processes. The milk- 

 ing is done quietly and rapidly, the same milkman always 

 attending to the same cows. The milk is set in deep tin 

 pans, filled to the depth of three inches, and placed on an oak 

 floor covered with running water of a temperature of fifty 

 degrees. Cream is taken off in twenty-four hours, placed in 

 vessels, and stirred whenever a new skimming is added. A 

 barrel-churn is used, the churning lasting an hour, when a 

 little cold milk is added to cause the butter to gather. A 

 cloth which has been wrung dry in cold spring-water is 

 repeatedly pressed upon the rolls of butter when they are 

 made, until not a particle of moisture is seen upon them, and 

 the butter begins to adhere to the cloth. This is called 

 " wiping " the butter. An ounce of salt to three pounds is 

 then worked in. This article is sent to market, and often 

 sells for one dollar per pound. 



Vermont butter has an excellent reputation in New Eng- 

 land. The Green Mountains have been famous for good 

 butter ; and the best dairymen of that region keep the milk 

 in cool, well-ventilated cellars in summer, and in a sweet, 

 clean milk-room at other seasons. The temperature desired is 

 about sixty ; and, when it is reduced to fifty degrees, they 

 scald the milk, and thus prevent bitterness, labor in churning, 

 and loss of color. The milk is strained, and set as soon as it 

 is drawn, and skimmed before it becomes thick (generally 

 in twenty-four hours), when the temperature is up to sixty 

 degrees, but much longer in proportion as it is colder. Many 

 prefer to stir the cream every twelve hours, and sprinkle over 

 the top with fine salt. When the butter has " come," the 

 buttermilk is drawn off, and cold water or ice water turned 

 in, and the butter thoroughly worked till rid of buttermilk ; 

 and, if it is then " crumbly " or " spongy," the water is worked 

 out by hand very carefully to prevent injuring the grain, 

 and rendering it greasy. 



There is much poor, pale, ill-flavored butter made in win- 

 ter : there is also some produced of a fair average quality, 

 only coming short of the fresh butter from the fragrant 

 grasses of June. The difficulty lies partly in the winter 

 food, and partly in the temperature of the milk. Willard 



