606 ANNUAL REPORT OF THE Off. Doc. 



future needs of the plants. The melon is usually considered a 

 shallow rooted plant and for this reason soils in the past have 

 not been worked very deep, but it has been my experience that a 

 deeper root system is encouraged by a deeper working of the soil 

 and this means stronger and healthier plants and a better crop in 

 every respect. The melon plant when well grown has an extensive 

 root system, as well as a large vine and leaf surface, and it takes 

 a large amount of plant food to support this growth. We do not 

 need to worry about getting the soil too rich for melons providing 

 the plant food is well balanced. I mean by this that if clover sod 

 is plowed down and heavy applications of manure have been made 

 we will need to use phosphoric acid and potash in sufficient amounts 

 to balance up the nitrogen that has been added to the soil by the 

 clover and manure, otherwise the plants are liable to produce too 

 much vine growth at a sacrifice of fruit. I believe many plants 

 blight or become weak and stunted in growth late in the season 

 because of the lack of sufficient plant food to hold the plant up dur- 

 ing the period of fruit production. Chemical fertilizers have not 

 been used successfully in the Colorado districts but I believe here 

 with our heavier soils they may be used to advantage and the sources 

 of supply for the different elements should be chosen with reference 

 to a gradual availability in order that the plant may be kept grow- 

 ing throughout the season. 



It is impossible to recommend a fei'tilizer that will suit all con- 

 ditions. Each man will have to work out his own fertilizer problem 

 and apply in amounts to suit the needs of the crop in his soil. 

 A fertilizer that has been found satisfactory in many cases con- 

 sists of four per cent, nitrogen, eight per cent, phosphoric acid and 

 ten per cent, potash applied at the rate of 800 to 1,500 pounds per 

 acre. It has always been my practice to apply the phosphoric acid 

 and potash and a little of the nitrogen broadcast and thoroughly 

 work it into the soil with a harrow and save most of the nitrate 

 of soda to be used as a top dressing to start the plants oflf after 

 they have produced their first true leaves or after they have be- 

 come established if transplanted from a cold frame. Some growers 

 on a small scale especially prepare each hill using two or three fork- 

 fuls of manure in the bottom and covering with about four inches 

 of soil in which the seed is sown, but the general practice is now 

 to prepare all the soil evenly and thoroughly. 



After the soil has been put in good condition the seed may be 

 safely sown about the 15th of May and by the time the young plants 

 are through the ground all danger of frost will be past and the 

 nights will be getting warmer. I do not believe anything is gained 

 by planting seed too early in cold, wet soil. The seed germinates 

 slowly and the plants are often stunted by cold nights and show 

 the effect throughout the season. There are two methods of plant- 

 ing with varying distances for each. Seed is often sown in hills, 

 the common distances being six by six to facilitate cultivation in 

 both directions. The larger growers, however, are now planting in 

 hillrows ranging from seven to nine feet apart and sowing enough 

 seed so the plants may be thinned to stand two or three feet apart 

 in the row. This system requires more hand cultivation but has the 

 advantage of allowing two rows of early peas to be grown between 



