;56S STATE BOARD OV AGRICULTUEE. 



FOR AUTUMN". 



Porter, Twenty Ounce, Lowell, Chenango Strawberry. 



FOR AVIKTEii. 



Ived Canada top grafted on to good native stock ; Northern Spy well trimmed, 

 fruit thinned and tree Avell cared for ; Rhode Island Greening, Wagener, if 

 served as recommended for Northern Spy ; Jonathan, AVestfield Seok-no- 

 Further, Talman Sweet, Shiawassee Beaut}^ American Golden Russet. Every 

 one, 251'obably, will wonder why I have not added certain others he would men- 

 tion. There are none in the above list to bo ashamed of, nor are any of them 

 perfection in tree and fruit. I would not rely upon one or two varieties alone 

 for market in case that one or two might fail. 



now TO SET THE TREES. 



j\Iy choice would be as follows : Plant seeds of some vigorous native fruit, 

 and when two years old set them in the orchard. When about five years old 

 top gi'aft the main upper branches. The second choice would be to go to the 

 nearest nursery and select two-year old grafted or budded trees. Take those of 

 uniform moderate size which have grown in heavy soil. Forced or very large 

 trees of any size are more likely to die from winter's cold or summer's heat. 

 "Large size" may be a good recommend in selecting a lamb or pig for eating, 

 but not for young apple trees. 



SETTING OUT. 



From the time the roots are out of the ground to the time the young trees are 

 set, keep the roots moist and out of the sun or dry wind. Pry the trees up and 

 get all the roots possible. Trim the broken or rough ends. Do not dig the 

 holes till the tree is nearly ready to set, as the soil will be in better condition. 

 Digging holes for the small trees will not be much work if my directions for 

 preparing the soil have been folloAved. Mark the ground in squares, two rods 

 apart, or forty feet is better. When set in squares the trees are better situated 

 for cultivating and driving between than they would be if set in quincunx. The 

 roots v,'ill easily run all over the ground and get at all the good soil Avithin 

 twenty-five or thirty feet. I know of no better way to stake out an orchard 

 than the one described in Thomas' American Fruit Culturist, p. 55. It is briefly 

 as follows : Stretch a stout cord the size of a pipe stem along one side of the 

 orchard where you are to set a row of trees ; a line may be used 700 or 500 feet 

 long. Pull it quite tight. Measure off the proper distance for each tree and 

 tie a white string on firmly. Stick a small stake at each point. Move the cord 

 on to complete the row if the orchard is large enough to require it. Stretch 

 the cord across one end and stick stakes. Stretch it again on the other side 

 and put in stakes for each tree. Again measure across the other end to see if 

 the side rows are parallel. Then from near the end of the plat move the lines 

 from stake to stake on the sides and then sink pegs for each tree. Place all the 

 pegs before setting out any trees, so that any corrections can be made. Take a 

 piece of board four inches by six feet, bore an inch hole near each end, cut a 

 notch to the center on one side of the board at the middle. Place the board 

 with notch against the pin where a tree is to set, put a peg in each hole at the 

 end of the board. Remove the center pin and board and dig the hole for the 

 tree. Replace the board and let the tree come in the notch in the middle of 

 the board. 



