PROCEEDINGS OF THE WINTER MEETING. 51 



the first few days you will find but few bugs, but still keep up the search 

 until the vines have commenced to run and are well started. From time 

 to time thin out, removing the poorer plants, until there remains only from 

 one to three plants, the condition of surrounding hills to be considered. 

 Commence cultivating and hoeing as soon as the plants are all up and keep 

 the ground well tended. Until the vines begin to run the two-horse culti- 

 vator or drag can be used. While cultivating and hoeing, fill up the fur- 

 rows until all is level. When the vines begin to run you can aid them in 

 covering the ground by turning them in the proper direction, but don't 

 disturb them after they have made a few feet of growth, for if not dis- 

 turbed and the ground has been kept mellow they will take root at nearly 

 every joint. Just here is one of the secrets of success in raising squashes. 

 If the vine has taken root near where the squash has set you will be very 

 sure of a good squash at that point. This rooting at the joints enables the 

 squashes to get food for growth over a large surface, and thus utilize all 

 the rich soil and gather moisture over a large surface. 



If one desires, he can plant a row of sweet corn midway between the 

 rows or hills of squashes, and I think with benefit to the squashes, as the 

 vines are constantly reaching out for something to cling to and seem to do 

 better when they can get hold of something. The sweet corn is all clear 

 gain, as it occupies the ground only at the end of the vines. My best late 

 sweet corn is thus raised without any extra expense except for the seed. 



Early planting, before the ground becomes warm, invites feeble growth 

 and swarms of bugs. Here is where many fail unless they give extra care. 

 I have had best success, one year with another, in planting the first three 

 weeks in June, depending on the weather or season. 



HARVESTING, STORING, MARKETING. 



Watch for early frosts and gather before injured; put in small piles and 

 cover lightly with stalks or straw or vines, or remove them to the barn; 

 handle carefully as you would eggs; cut the stem from the vines with a 

 knife. Put straw or hay in the bottom of wagon when gathering. Wag- 

 ons with springs are the best. Store in a dry place away from any damp 

 or mouldy substances. At the beginning of winter store what are not 

 marketed in any dry place free from frost, where the temperature will be 

 kept quite even; avoid a damp cellar or any cellar in which there is any 

 mould or musty substances. For family use keep them anywhere in the 

 house where they will not get frosted. They are clean vegetables and will 

 do no harm in any out-of-the-way place — in the hall or closet or under the 

 bed! They will keep longest near the chimney or stovepipe, but may 

 lose a little in quality if kept too long. Those picked just before fully 

 ripe keep the best — those picked early to show at fairs are nearly always 

 the best keepers. Where very large crops are raised, a squash-house is 

 indispensable. With such I have had no experience. Such houses when 

 built should be frost proof and so planned that the air can be kept dry 

 and of an even temperature. 



If you value your reputation, don't sell squashes that have been frosted 

 or that are poor keepers unless you advise the buyer of the fact so that he 

 will use them up before decay commences and he be saved from loss. In 

 marketing, don't sell to any grocery man or dealer who will keep them for 

 any length of time in a damp cellar or in any damp, mouldy, or musty 



