124 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



So far as my observation goes, a rather heavy loam, with a clay sub- 

 soil, has proved most suitable for most varieties. I am firmly convinced 

 of the fact that the soil has great effect, not only upon the health, but 

 also upon the productiveness and quality of the fruit. It hardly seems 

 necessary for me to suggest that whenever the soil is found to be lacking 

 in fertility, a liberal amount of bone meal or wood ashes should be applied. 



POSITION IN THE VINEYARD. 



There is probably no question upon which vineyardists differ to so great 

 an extent as upon the distance grapevines should be set apart. Of all dis- 

 tances that I have tried and seen tried, I have never found any more satis- 

 factory than twelve by sixteen feet. The advantages over a less distance 

 are, more sunlight and better circulation of air, thus causing the vines to 

 dry more quickly after rain, thus preventing mildew and rot to some 

 extent. It also gives plenty of room to cultivate with team, also for 

 raking of cuttings out from between the rows with horse-rake. This dis- 

 tance also gives plenty of room to drive horse and cart with spraying 

 machine. 



Whether the vineyard is set upon the eastern or western hillside, set 

 your vines sixteen feet apart in rows running north and south. This will 

 prevent to a great degree the washing by heavy rains. This also gives 

 both sides of the row an equal benefit from the rays of the sun. 



PRUNING IN BRIEF. 



I would say, in regard to pruning, that I have no fine-spun theories to 

 offer. This subject has been so often treated by our best vineyardists 

 that I do not deem it wise to occupy much of your valuable time. At the 

 time of planting I generally trim off all but two buds. I prune again in 

 November, down to about three and one half feet. In the spring the two 

 upper buds are allowed to grow, all others being pruned off, thus leaving 

 two canes to grow upon each one of the previous year's growths. Each 

 vine should be trained to wires which are placed upon posts, about fifteen 

 inches apart, the top vine to be placed nearly to the top of the post. The 

 posts should be about six feet above the ground. These vines are allowed 

 to run eight feet each way. After the length of the vine is established, I 

 usually prune in November, leaving two strong buds upon each branch of 

 the present year's growth, for the bearing wood for the next season. 



I do not wish to be understood, by what I have said, that I favor sum- 

 mer pruning; that is, the breaking off of the ends of vines or leaves 

 after the grapes have formed. I have never seen any good results from 

 such pruning. What I recommend is, thinning out after the vine has 

 made a growth of three or four inches. 



About the first of June, or when the vines have made a growth of about 

 three inches, I go through the vineyard and break off all weak sprouts, 

 leaving only the strongest ones which contain the largest clusters. If to 

 any one thing more than another I am indebted for my success in growing 

 grapes, it is to the proper thinning in the month of June. 



HYGIENIC WORK IN THE VINEYARD. 



To have abundant crops of grapes we must have healthy vines. The 

 experience of the last few years has demonstrated the fact that, in order 



