158 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



these favorable conditions, and the other observations strictly adhered to,, 

 much more satisfactory results can be secured than from general farming. 



Location — One of the most important of all conditions is a favorable 

 location. It should be a selection with not only natural water drainage 

 but air drainage as well, to insure against damage by late spring or early 

 autumn frosts; for frost, like water, seeks the lowest levels. Therefore, the 

 greatest elevations are best, and more sure to produce good crops of peache& 

 annually. 



Soil — The soil may be variable, from light and sandy to a medium heavy 

 soil, but it must be dry. Sandy loam is best, although some varieties, lik& 

 Hill's Chilli or Late Crawford, do well on a clay loam. 



Varieties — Another very important consideration is to select those vari- 

 eties that are adapted to your soil and location, and such as will give a 

 succession in ripening. Unless your experience in peach-culture will help 

 you to decide what varieties are best to set, to secure the desired results, 

 it would be wise to consult the nearest successful growers, whose experience 

 might save you much. Varieties that do well in one location do not always 

 succeed in another. Therefore I emphasize "nearest successful growers." 



The State Horticultural Reports contain the experience of many of the best 

 and most successful growers in the state, as well as the reports of results of 

 the several experiment stations, which are conducted by experts, all of which 

 is very valuable to not only the new beginner but even the veteran grower. 

 Among the many valuable horticultural journals is the Allegan (iazette, 

 published by E. C. Reid, secretary of the State society. One department 

 of each paper is devoted entirely to the fruitgrowing interest. These 

 journals and reports aid much in determining what, among the multiplicity 

 of varieties, to use and what to discard. Thousands of dollars are annu- 

 ally paid for high-priced specialities that are not worth the cultivation, so 

 time, money, and use of land are all wasted. 



The planter who has set several varieties in rows or blocks, with a view 

 to their successive ripening, not only for the purpose of continuous work 

 at harvest time, but with a future view to supplying some particular 

 market with a constant supply of his fruits, can not count his loss in dollars 

 if he finds that his trees when fruiting are not true to label, and his suc- 

 cession is broken up, if not mixed through the entire lot. I have known 

 of many such instances, and much loss by the j)lanters. 



Preparation of Soil — A thorough preparation of soil before planting^ 

 will aid much in setting, cultivation, and in the early growth of the trees. 



Planting — Plant as early in spring as the ground can be properly fitted. 

 Trim to a whip or stub and cut the top at the height desired for starting 

 the head. Set one rod to twenty feet apart and put in rows both ways. 



Cultivation — The cultivation should be thorough each year, up to about 

 August 1. Then discontinue to allow the new wood growth to fully mature 

 and harden up, to better resist the cold of winters; except, if the trees are 

 well laden with fruit, the fruit needs and will take the extra flow of sap 

 induced by the continuous stirring of the soil. Bank around the body of 

 each tree with earth, late in fall, for support and protection, removing the 

 same early the next season. 



Pruning — Proper pruning of the trees each year is a necessary part of 

 the work of a successful grower, to shape and balance the top and to pre- 

 vent the formation of bad crotches that are quite sure to split down in 

 storms or when laden with fruit, and greatly injure if not destroy the- 

 tree. 



