230 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



GEOSSED LIMBS. 



A second thing to have in mind is to remove all branches that seem 

 likely to interfere with each other. Although it is less common than in the 

 cherry and pear, the branches of peaches cross each other and become par- 

 tially girdled by the chafing that ensues. As soon as they show any tend- 

 ency to cross each other, the one that can best be spared should be cut out. 

 While it is desirable to have the head thick enough to keep the sun from 

 burning the bark of the limbs, and to have the main branches clothed with 

 fruiting shoots back to within four or five feet of the main stem, the mis- 

 take must not be made of keeping the heads so thick that the sun can not get 

 in to color the fruit. When well laden, although some of the centre shoots 

 may maintain their upright position, the side branches will be sometimes 

 drawn down by their load of fruit and the sun can thus get down among the 

 branches. If, however, the branches are so thick as to prevent this, some 

 of the weaker ones should be cut out, in addition to the heading back that 

 is given the others. A pair of pruniug shears will be all that is needed for 

 the removal of the surplus branches if the work is not neglected. How- 

 ever, although its excessive use will shorten the life of the tree, a saw must 

 sometimes be resorted to. Whatever method of pruning is employed, the 

 cuts should be as smooth as possible, care being taken not to bruise the 

 bark, or tear it down the stub. While no general rule can be given for the 

 place of making a cut, it can be said that, when cutting back a branch to 

 the main shoot, care should be taken not to leave any projecting spur, and 

 the wound should be as small as possible. 



As a rule, the cut should start from an eighth to a fourth of an inch 

 from the main branch and come out in about the middle of the thickening 

 which is generally present on the under side. When made parallel with 

 the main branch the wound is unnecessarily large, and it is better to have 

 it made 10 to 15 degrees from a parallel. In heading back a branch the 

 cut should be made at an angle of 45°, just beyond a strong bud or branch. 



THINNING THE FRUIT. 



One of the most difficult things about peach-growing is to have the trees 

 properly thinned, as few men without previous experience will remove 

 enough of the fruits even if those left upon the trees are properly distrib- 

 •uted. Not only will there be as many bushels of fruit upon a properly 

 pruned tree, as on one that has twice or three times as many fruits, but the 

 peaches, being larger and handsomer, will sell readily at a highly remuner- 

 tive price, while others of the same variety, that have been given -exactly 

 the same care except that they were not thinned, will be a drug in the 

 market at any price and may not bring enough to pay charges. It is 

 extremely unprofitable not to thin the fruit, and it will also be found a 

 short-sighted policy, as the trees will be greatly weakened by the strain of 

 supplying the phosphorus and other mineral elements required for the 

 formation of the excessive number of pits. The large, thinned fruits con- 

 tain only perhaps one third as many pits as the others, being largely com- 

 posed of the flesh, which is mostly water. The mineral elements are most 

 likely to be wanting in the soil, and are consequently most difficult to 

 obtain; since they are required in large quantities in the pits, it can be 

 readily seen that the practice of leaving the fruit unthinned is very 

 exhausting to the trees and willso lessen their vitality that the growth will 



