THE PENINSULA FARMERS' CLUB. 459 



is wanting in vegetable matter. You thus obtain vegetable matter for future 

 wae. 



Mr. Reese. — My plan is to plow about four inches the first time and six the 

 second. 



Mr. Parmelee. — Even on very sandy soil, if the season is wet, you can grow 

 clover, and of course after that any crop. I have in mind a piece of that descrip- 

 tion which, from the depth of the sand was a terror to travelers, thus brought 

 up to fertility. 



Mr. Ladd. — It is possible, in the case of those German experiments to which 

 Mr. Parmelee has alluded, there was already sufficient humus in the soil. If 

 80, full results would not be obtained the first year or two. 



Mr. Curtis. — I notice Mr. Geddes turns his sod just before he sows his seed. 

 Here we may do that, but if his land is heavy I don't see how he prepares his 

 seed-bed properly. On my light clover land 1 manured heavily with barn-yard 

 manure, had a good stand of wheat in the fall, but it grew rank and winter 

 killed. 



Mr. E. Wait. — After manuring I plow shallow, that the wheat roots may 

 have the benefit of the manure. 



Mr. Parmelee. — Mr. Geddes, in a letter published about the year 1868, dis- 

 suades from summer-fallowing. I am inclined to favor Mr. Wait's idea of 

 shallow plowing, if you can kill the sod. I have seen no good effects, at least 

 not immediate good effects, from plowing in deeply either sod or manure. 



Mr. E. Wait. — If you want a good first crop, don't plow deep. 



Mr. Parmelee. — The New York club has been in a muddle for years over this 

 question of deep and shallow plowing. I hope we shan't follow their example. 

 The fact that sod land plowed shallow brings the best present crops, is nothing 

 against deep plowing. On bare land deep stirring, thereby exposing the sub- 

 soil to the air, is beneficial. And even on our well drained lands tile drainage 

 would be good. Deep and shallow plowing, as applied to sod or bare land, are 

 two very different things. 



Mr. Savage. — Turning under long straw will have much the same effect as 

 tile drainage. I have witnessed its good results in Wisconsin in an unusually 

 dry season. 



Mr. Parmelee. — I once knew a peach orchard sitnated on a sandy soil, but sub- 

 ject to overflow. The owner laid down a tile drain between the rows of trees. 

 The next year the orchard did splendidly. The following spring the orchard 

 was deluged as usual. On examination he found his drain full of fibrous roots. 

 The tiles were removed and large ones of wood replaced them; but the next 

 year these also were filled with fibrous roots, — filled as if they had been rammed 

 in. Why should those fibrous roots grow there in such immense quantities? 

 While absent I read your discussion on weeds; and as to Canada thistles, 

 would say I have effectually destroyed them by cutting them down and apply- 

 ing salt. 



Mr. Savage. — Dr. Mack, of Benzonia, says'sulphuric acid,a drop or two only, 

 will kill any weed. 



Mr. B. Montiigue. — I learn there are more thistle patches. 



Mr. W. Parmelee. — Applying kerosene to the aphis, I killed them and the 

 twig they inlested. Perhaps it will kill thistle. 



Mr. DariUS Drew. — I have heard that kerosene will kill the thistle effectually. 



