THE BEAUTY OF BRAZIL 



months of the northern summer ; then follows the sultry season of 

 variable winds, and from October onwards the north-west monsoon 

 blows, which has passed over the mainland of Asia, and has not, 

 therefore, the coolness of the ocean wind. In Ceylon, accordingly, 

 I have felt the heat even more severely than in Pernambuco, although 

 the island lies just eight degrees north of the Equator, whereas 

 Pernambuco lies just as far south of it. In Pernambuco, as early as 

 one o'clock in the afternoon, when the wind began to blow more 

 briskly, I was able to go for a walk, while in India at that hour 

 walking would have been most exhausting. While I was in Ceylon 

 I never dared to go out without a sun-helmet, for otherwise headache 

 and illness would have resulted, whereas in Pernambuco I always 

 wore a straw hat without coming to any harm. Apparently the 

 sunlight of Brazil has a different quality to that of India. In Ceylon 

 the yellow rays appear to be predominant, so that when taking 

 photographs, even in the most brilliant sunlight, one has to give a 

 longer exposure than in Brazil, or even Europe. 



The Brazilian climate, of course, cannot be compared with the 

 European — at least as regards its effect on the human body. If here 

 in Freiburg I climb the Bromberg of an afternoon — a height of a 

 thousand feet — hardly two hours have elapsed before I am home 

 again, refreshed, and I go at once to my desk and resume my work ; 

 whereas to climb the hill of Olinda, little more than three hundred 

 feet in height, required a very much greater effort, and after a walk 

 I was exhausted rather than refreshed. After an excursion of any 

 length I threw myself down on the sofa or the bed, with arms and 

 legs extended, and it was some minutes before exhaustion gave way 

 to repose. Hence the Brazilians dislike active movement, and walking 

 as a form of exercise is quite unknown to them ; for example, on 

 renting a house it becomes a matter of some importance that the 

 electric tramway should not merely pass the house, but also that there 

 should be a halting-place as nearly opposite the house as possible. 

 When I had to pack my trunk in Pernambuco I always stripped 

 to the skin, and even then I had often to sit down, and mop my 

 forehead, and dip my hands in water, and was always thankful 

 when the task was ended. 



Similarly, far more notice is taken of inclement weather than is 

 usual with us. Brazilians avoid the rain as they would the plague, 

 and in rainy weather the concert-halls and lecture-rooms are empty. 

 It is true, of course, that a chill may readily have serious conse- 

 quences. The newcomer in particular should take good care that 



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