A NATURALIST IN BRAZIL 



his health remains unimpaired, for then he will be best equipped 

 to meet the dangers of infection. Most important of all is a regular 

 action of the bowels ; an intermission even of a day is said to be 

 dangerous, as the toxins of putrefaction accumulate in the bowel. 

 Fortunately there are in Brazil fruits which have every possible kind 

 of effect, from those which impede the digestion to those which 

 promote it, some gently and others more vigorously, as we shall 

 see in Chapter VIIL To be moderate in all things is the first rule 

 for the maintenance of health in the tropics. 



I myself enjoyed the best of health all the year round, in Brazil 

 as in Ceylon. It is true that I was living under favourable conditions, 

 and was able to work at that time of day which suited me best, and 

 in accordance with my inclination. Those who go to Brazil as 

 employees in business houses have to work at prescribed hours, which 

 is much more exhausting ; and any immigrant who attempts to do 

 the work of an agricultural labourer in tropical Brazil is forced to 

 realize that such work is difficult for the strongest man, and im- 

 possible for any other, and that he can never work so hard, and live 

 so frugally and cheaply, as the native-born agricultural labourer. 



Despite all such drawbacks, however, the tropics exert a magical 

 fascination. When I think of Brazil it is not Rio de Janeiro that rises 

 before me, with its proud coronal of mountains and its incomparable 

 bay: the north-eastern coast of Brazil has engraven itself more deeply 

 on my heart. 



And this chiefly because this part of Brazil is more strongly 

 individual than the south, which is already only too far modified 

 by European influences. The north-east is genuinely Brazilian. 

 Cities like OUnda, Parahyba, and even Bahia, have a character of 

 their own. Here the old colonial style, best adapted to the country, 

 and most harmonious in effect, is still frequent, giving the streets a 

 charm of their own. In the matter of architecture, therefore, I find 

 Olinda and Bahia more pleasing than Rio or Sao Paulo. Similarly, 

 in the north-east of Brazil the old Portuguese manners and customs 

 still survive with all their charm, and those who penetrate further 

 into the country will find reminiscences of them even in the manners 

 of the Indian aborigines. Again, the repose dictated by the climate 

 impresses the traveller agreeably. Of this I shall say more in my 

 final chapter. 



And for these reasons a journey through Recife, despite its 234,000 

 inhabitants, is not so trying as a journey through Rio or Sao Paulo. 

 Without being pressed or hurried, one steps on to the "Bond" — 

 26 



