A NATURALIST IN BRAZIL 



with fragments of rock exposed by folding or denuded by alluvial 

 erosion. This is the "Alto Sertao." 



Southwards from the State of Espirito Santo the highlands reach 

 to the coast, and then, falling steeply away, they form, with far-flung 

 cliffs, and nuclei of rock isolated by erosion, staring like the teeth of 

 a giant comb at the sky, the magnificent mountain landscape of 

 Rio. But throughout Brazil the uplands incline towards the west, 

 sinking to an extensive plain which includes the greatest river-basin 

 in the world. For even rivers which have their source barely sixty 

 miles from the coast are compelled, by the slope of the continent, 

 to flow towards the west, and so the principal streams combine into 

 rivers of increasing magnitude, which flow towards the north and 

 the south. The former are the tributaries of the Amazon ; the latter 

 flow into La Plata, 



On approaching the south of Brazil the highlands of the interior 

 are covered with ever-increasing stretches of grassy plains (campos), 

 interspersed with areas of bush (catingas), and so they gradually 

 merge into the steppe landscape of the State of Rio Grande do Sul 

 and the Argentinian pampas. In the north-east, on the other hand, 

 we have a singular landscape, a land of deserts overgrown by leafless 

 woods. These are the Sertoes. 



I visited the Sertoes of Pernambuco and Parahyba. One reaches 

 the first by the line leaving the Central Station in Recife, and the 

 second by that leaving the Northern Station, known as "Brum," 

 after the picturesque old Dutch fort nearby, whose walls are reflected 

 in the sea. One travels from early in the morning until late in the 

 evening. The first class carriages — the second class are for coloured 

 people — have cushioned seats covered with woven cane; the backs 

 can be adjusted in accordance with the direction of the train, and 

 the windows, which are open on either side, for a draught is desirable 

 in such close confinement, are provided with sun-blinds. A dining- 

 car provides excellent meals. Travelling, therefore, would be very 

 pleasant were it not for the fact that in the dry season the air is so 

 full of dust that passengers of any experience always wear linen 

 overalls during the journey. The carriages are often worn out ; they 

 sway violently to and fro, and the constant sound of the whistle, 

 which is blown to drive cattle off" the track, is decidedly wearing to 

 the nerves. 



While in Ceylon the stations are little gems, adorned with the 

 most delightful show of flowers — for the Government offers prizes 

 for the most decorative railway stations — the Brazilian station 



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