All my La Plata friends came to see me of?, when my steamer sailed 

 from Ensenada. In addition to the stops which we had made on the 

 outward voyage, we spent a day at Santos, the great coffee port. Dr. 

 H. von Ihering, for many years director of the Sao Paolo Museum, 

 did me the honour to come down and meet me and I had a long talk 

 with him. Santos, too, I found very interesting without going ashore. 

 The modern-looking equipment of cranes was not used; a line of 

 brown-skinned, bare-legged porters kept passing to and fro between 

 the warehouse and the ship, one line of men with sacks of coffee on 

 their necks and shoulders, the other returning for a fresh load. They 

 told me that a sack of coffee weighed 125 pounds and most of those 

 slender, spindle-shanked and fragile-looking men carried one sack each, 

 but several of them carried two. It seems incredible that such men could 

 support a load of 250 pounds. 



Stops at Rio, Bahia and Pernambuco were preludes to the long voy- 

 age. After leaving the Brazilian ports, passengers were not allowed to 

 go ashore until we reached Southampton, because the plague was 

 endemic at Rio and the voyage was not long enough to make up the 

 period required by quarantine regulations. At the Cape Verde islands, 

 Lisbon and Vigo, it was exasperating to see the land and yet be im- 

 prisoned on shipboard. In England, I spent but forty-eight hours and, 

 as elsewhere told, I attended a remarkable meeting of the Zoological 

 Society. The voyage from Liverpool to New York was most uncom- 

 fortably cold and I lived principally in the smoking-room. I landed on 

 November 29, just five weeks after sailing from Ensenada, a most dreary 

 and monotonous period. 



I 254 ] 



