Heidelberg, Gadow referred to the matter laughingly, but with evident 

 signs of vexation. 



Our Black Forest tramp was a great success and we heartily en- 

 joyed it. We began the walk from Freiburg, through the Hollenthal, 

 up the Feldberg, which we found deep in snow, and so on to Constance. 

 Thence we returned to Heidelberg by rail. The tour was instructive, as 

 showing us the ways in which the foreigner was systematically fleeced. 

 Years before a cousin of mine had encountered an uncommonly candid 

 landlord in Switzerland who told him that the hotels had three tariffs. 

 One, much the lowest, was for students, the second for travellers from 

 the Continental nations, and the third, very much the highest, was 

 for those who spoke English. At that time Englishmen and Americans 

 were not clearly distinguished. 



We gave ourselves out as German students, registered Heidelberg as 

 our dwelling place and, almost always, spoke German to each other. 

 Our living expenses were ridiculously small, except at one little rustic 

 inn, where we had taken refuge from the pouring rain and which 

 looked as though taken directly from one of Auerbach's tales. As the 

 storm kept up and the place was clean, we spent the night and took 

 seats in the taproom, the only warm place in the house, which was 

 full of peasants. We exchanged a few sentences in English and, at the 

 sound of that remunerative language, the landlord jumped up and 

 peered at us around the great tile stove, behind which he had been sit- 

 ting. I don't think it was merely a coincidence that our bill there was 

 twice what it was at any other place. 



Many years after the date of our tour through the Black Forest, I 

 was talking to the head-waiter of a hotel in Munich, when he remarked: 

 "You speak surprisingly good German." "Yes," I repHed indifferently, 

 "I find it cheaper." For a moment he looked very sheepish and then 

 laughed and said: "I am afraid I'll have to admit that you are right 

 about that." Not that the Germans were sinners above all other peoples 

 in exploiting the stranger — the other Continental countries were quite 

 as bad, though I never encountered that particular practice in England. 

 The way in which recruits in our great training camps in 1917-1918 

 were cheated by the neighbouring farmers and storekeepers is sufficient 

 to keep us from cherishing any self-righteous feeling of superiority on 

 that head. 



I returned from the Black Forest inexpressibly refreshed and ready 

 to take up in earnest the work of preparing for the examination. For 

 the time being, I had to drop my embryological investigations, though 



C "8 3 



