My stay in Munich was interrupted by a flying visit to Vienna, to 

 see the Dinotherium skeleton of which Weithofer had told me. To 

 save time, I made the journey in both directions at night and to save 

 expense, I travelled second class; the result of this twofold economy 

 was to deprive me of two nights' sleep and, for some mysterious reason, 

 I slept hardly at all the two nights I spent in the Vienna hotel. I had 

 written to Dr. Fuchs, director of the Natural History Museum, con- 

 cerning the rare specimen and had received a very cordial reply, so 

 everything was ready for me, on my arrival. The skeleton was much 

 less complete than I had expected to find it, but, nevertheless, there 

 was enough to make my visit to Vienna very well worth while, to 

 say nothing of the beautiful city itself and the wonderful picture gal- 

 lery, which was still in the Belvedere. So far, this has been my only 

 opportunity to see the Austrian capital. 



In the summer of 1888, there was great tension between Germany and 

 France and a serious danger of war that made every one nervous and 

 apprehensive. That pasteboard hero, "le brave General" Boulanger, had 

 stirred up all the jingoes of France and seemed on the point of seizing 

 power and making himself dictator. As a precautionary measure, the 

 German Government announced that no one would be allowed to enter 

 Alsace or Lorraine from France without a passport. This decree threat- 

 ened to make my proposed visit to Paris impracticable, but the Ameri- 

 can Consul in Munich solved the problem by getting me a passport 

 from Berlin. After a week-end visit to Augsburg, I had intended to 

 visit the Museum at Stuttgart, but could not bear the thought of miss- 

 ing my little daughter's birthday. This omission was the less to be re- 

 gretted because, at that time, the collection at Stuttgart, so famous for 

 its reptiles, did not contain an important series of fossil mammals. 



During these various trips through Germany, I fell into conversation 

 with a considerable number of Germans and was greatly surprised at 

 the tone of brutally frank satisfaction with which the death of the 

 Emperor Frederick was discussed. No doubt, there were many people 

 who lamented, but they must have been a small minority and I met 

 none of them. The Empress Frederick, "the English woman," was as 

 bitterly and as unreasonably hated as Marie Antoinette, "the Austrian 

 woman," had been detested in pre-revolutionary France. While her let- 

 ters to Queen Victoria prove her loyalty to Germany, there can be no 

 doubt, I think, that she was tactless and persistently rubbed the Prus- 

 sians the wrong way and even such gentle souls as our Frauleins had 

 no word to say in her defence. The Germans had an invincible belief 



C 213 ] 



