BREEDING GOLDFISHES 205 



infrequently spawn over three thousand. This refers to the first breeding 

 of the season. As previously remarked, subsequent spawnings are consid- 

 erably smaller. 



As the plants become covered with eggs they should be removed from 

 time to time, allowing a few minutes for the last deposit to become fer- 

 tilized. The eggs when dropped are slightly flattened. They have a tiny 

 pore, and as the egg rounds itself like a rubber ball that has been squeezed, 

 it sucks in water charged with the spermatic fluid, thus helping impreg- 

 nate itself. The egg-covered plants should be removed to large enamel 

 receptacles, containing clean water of the same temperature as breeding 

 tank. Enamel is not absolutely necessary, but is desirable in the early 

 stages, as it facilitates observation. If more convenient, the fish may be 

 removed after spawning and allow the eggs to hatch where they have 

 fallen. One of our leading breeders makes an egg-trap composed of a 

 number of bunches of myriophyllum, secured together in a radiating 

 circle, like the spokes of a wheel. About ten bunches are used. The tinfoil 

 is removed from each and again tied with thread. The same thread is car- 

 ried half an inch to the next bunch, and so on until they are all arranged 

 on a string, which is then knotted together in the form of a circle. The 

 fishes spawn in this with their heads to the centre, and as the eggs are 

 discharged in the direction of the rays of plants, the chances of the eggs 

 finding a lodging place in them are very good. Such a circle need not be 

 removed until well filled with eggs. Some females eat their own spawn, 

 so removal of eggs is safer if hyacinths or small bunches of myriophyllum 

 are used. No snails should be present, as they eat the eggs. However, 

 after eggs are hatched, snails should be used to eat the infertile ones. 



Beginners frequently inquire whether it is possible to rear young 

 along with the old fish. It is not. Upon completion of spawning the 

 fishes begin eating the eggs. What few they miss may hatch, but the 

 fry are sure to be eaten, except in a pool or pond having an abundance 

 of protective vegetation in which they may hide for several weeks. 



The development of the embryo under the microscope is plainly ob- 

 servable and is extremely interesting. The hatching time is from four to 

 fourteen days, according to temperature. At a temperature ranging from 

 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit they should take from five to seven days. 

 This is considered to produce stronger fish than a slow hatching. The 

 hatching trays and young fish should be kept in a light place, and, if 

 possible, where they may be protected from temperatures below 60 or 

 over 80 degrees. If stood in hot sun for several hours in a shallow tray, 

 the eggs are liable to be "cooked," and therefore spoiled. 



When the alevin or newly-hatched embryo bursts from the egg it 

 is a very weak creature. It appears a mere thread with a pair of eyes 



