82 Appendix. 



CULTIVATION. 



Here is where failure visually comes. If the young tree is to grow, the 

 cultivation must be thorough. The weeds must be kept down and the ground 

 moist. The tools necessary are a plow, harrow, extension disc harrow, a 

 "Kimball" cultivator and a plank drag. The ground should be stirred 

 with one of these implements at least once in every ten days during the 

 growing season. For young trees cultivation should cease about August 1; 

 for bearing trees about August 20. 



COVER CROPS. 



Next in importance to cultivation, and a necessary adjunct to it, is the 

 winter cover crop. Constant cultivation in summer without a cover crop 

 for the rainy season is even more wasteful than the old summer fallow for 

 wheat. The common vetch is the best cover crop for Western Oregon con- 

 ditions and for those portions of Eastern Oregon which do not have severe 

 winters. The seed should be sown at the rate of about forty pounds per 

 acre in the latter part of August or early in September. It may be sown at 

 the time of the last cultivation. It must be sown early in order to acquire 

 sufficient growth to be turned under early in May. Where the winters are 

 cold and conditions are not favorable for the common vetch, the hairy vetch 

 may be substituted for it. The vetch being a leguminous plant will gather 

 sufficient nitrogen to supply the needs of the orchard, and will provide 

 humus so that moisture can be held throughout the dry season. Where this 

 system has been followed for three or four years I have seen in the middle 

 of August the soil so moist just below the surface that it could be squeezed 

 into a compact mass in the hand. 



After a good growth of the trees has been obtained or when they are four 

 or five years old the cover crop may be allowed to grow one summer instead 

 of being plowed under. This will tend to check wood growth to some extent 

 and to induce the formation of fruit buds. The heavy mulch will retain as 

 much moisture as is necessary and the crop will re-seed itself. 



SPRAYING. 



This subject is covered in detail in another part of this report, but I will 

 give here a few special instructions regarding the apple. At the present time 

 one is reasonably sure of getting good, clean stock from the nurseryman; 

 but personal attention should always be given to this point, and if there is 

 any reason for suspicion the stock should be fumigated, dipped or sprayed 

 before planting. Then keep it clean by continued spraying; don't wait for 

 it to become infected with all kinds of trouble before beginning to spray. 

 Every young apple tree should have a good annual spraying with lime and 

 sulphur. The best time to apply this is early in November or at latest just 

 as early as the leaves fall. The scale can be killed easier at that time 

 than at any other and the spores of fungous diseases can be reached at the 

 same time. When the trees come into bearing they should have another 

 spraying with lime and sulphur just before the buds open in the spring. 

 This is to prevent apple scab, and is very essential for this purpose. 



For the codling moth the first spraying with two or three pounds of 

 arsenate of lead to fifty gallons of water should be applied within five to 

 ten days after the blossoms fall. The apples at this time are pointing up 

 and the calyx end is still open so that the cavity can be filled with poison 

 awaiting the coming of the worm several weeks later. This spray should 

 be applied with a coarse nozzle like the Bordeaux, and be sprayed directly 

 against the end of the apple with great force. To do this have a bend in 

 the end of your spray rod, and if the trees are very high use a tower and 

 get up above your tree. Great thoroughness is absolutely essential in this 



