84 Appendix. 



work, for one apple overlooked may mean several hundred worms in August 

 and September. The second spraying for codling moth should be given 

 about June 25 to July 1 and a third August 1 and a fourth about September 

 5 to 10. 



PRUNING. 



There are many different ways of pruning the apple tree: high head or 

 low head; open center or full center, etc. Unquestionably the low-headed 

 tree is the best. The high tree can neither be sprayed thorouglily nor can 

 the fruit be thinned or gathered economically. In setting out the tree head 

 it back to 18 inches from the ground, and a right start will have been made. 

 Further explicit directions can not be given, for no two trees will grow 

 exactly alike; each must be treated according to its individual needs. It 

 hag been said that a tree will never grow a limb just where or how you 

 want it. 



Aim to grow a tree that will support itself just as nearly as possible; 

 avoid all Y or V-shaped crotches and do not cut all the center out under 

 the mistaken idea that it is necessary to do this to let in the sunlight. A 

 well loaded tree will bend under the weight of the fruit until it will open 

 up the center all that is necessary. A tree with the center all cut out is 

 already deprived of its natural support and artificial aid must be provided 

 from the start. 



THINNING THE FRUIT. 



Apples need more or less thinning every year if a large percentage of 

 first-class fruit is to be obtained. With the Spitzenburgh thinning is abso- 

 lutely essential to procure perfect development. The general rule is to leave 

 only one apple in a place, and far enough apart so they will not touch at 

 maturity. This will require from four to six inches of space, according to 

 the size of the apple. Hand-thinning should be done early, as soon as the 

 crop is well set and nature has completed her process of thinning. The 

 work may be done with the fingers without the aid of any instrument by 

 merely bending the small apples sharply back as in regular picking; but 

 the work is best accomplished by the use of small shears made especially 

 for the purpose. These shears were used by a number of orcliardists last 

 season and can be obtained at leading hardware dealers this season. It is 

 contended by some that this is too much bother and expense, but those who 

 are doubtful are urged to give it a trial on a few trees at least. Note care- 

 fully the cost and the benefit. These surplus apples must be picked some 

 time, and it can be done cheaper at thinning time in June than at; picking 

 time in September or October. The remainder given opportunity for full 

 development will equal in quantity and surpass in quality the unthinned 

 fruit. 



PICKING. 



It is difficult to tell just when to pick an apple. Experience can be the 

 only guide. Weather conditions enter largely into the question, as it is cer- 

 tainly better to pick a little early when a storm is threatening than to risk 

 the loss from wind and rain. Fruit for storage and long keeping must be 

 picked before full maturity is reached. Correct storage being merely a 

 process of keeping the apple from ripening, it is plain the apple must not 

 be fully ripe at the beginning. Fruit that is to be marketed locally or early 

 in the season can be left upon the trees much longer, thus securing higher 

 color and fuller flavor. A safe general rule is to pick as soon as sound 

 fruit begins to fall from the tree in normal weather, and when the seeds 

 are well browned; although these two conditions are not always simul- 

 taneous. 



