no Report of State Board of Horticulture. 



The best time for planting is in April, and one-year-old vines are to be 

 preferred. When planting, trim off all ragged or broken roots and cut back 

 long ones one-half to two-thirds, and cut back the stem to two buds. 

 Plant deeply, working fine surface soil carefully about the roots, then 

 tread thoroughly with the fet until the hole is nearly full, and finish by 

 spreading the earth from the bottom of the hole loosely over the top. 

 When planted, set a strong four-foot stake an inch or so from the stem; 

 always on the same side of the row so that they will not bother when culti- 

 vating. 



Cultivate thoroughly from early spring until August 1 to 10. Cultivation 

 after this latter date tends to prevent the proper ripening of the wood. 

 The tools needed are a one-horse plow, a disc harrow, a cultivator and a hoe. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING. 



The pruning the first year is plain sailing, but after that it becomes 

 m'ore difficult, and the beginner should, if possible, visit some experienced 

 grower and see how it is done, for it is very difficult to write directions 

 sufficiently clear for a new hand to follow. As soon as the two buds left 

 at the time of planting get long enough, tie the strongest one to the stake 

 and rub off the other. Keep the new shoot tied carefully to the stake as 

 it grows and rub off all laterals as fast as they appear. There are many 

 ways of training the vine, but the fan shape on a wire trellis is my pref- 

 erence. If this method is adopted then the second spring the first season's 

 growth must be cut back to twelve or fifteen inches from the ground, leav- 

 ing the two top buds to grow, and rubbing off all other shoots and suckers 

 as fast as they appear. Treat these two shoots just the same as the one 

 of the first season. 



The third spring build trellis. Use heavy cedar posts well braced at the 

 ends and light posts every sixteen feet apart along the row. No. 12 gal- 

 vanized wires, one twenty-four inches from the ground, the other forty-eight 

 or fifty inches, should be stretched tight on the posts. Then cut back the 

 two canes of the second season's growth to three or four buds each and 

 tie to the lower wire, still keeping the main stem tied to the stake until strong 

 enough to stand alone. Let two shoots grow from each branch of the vine, 

 tying them to the wires as they grow out; when five or six feet long pinch 

 off the ends. These should bear a few grapes, and will furnish the bearing 

 wood for the next season. The fourth season four or five new shoots may 

 be started for the fifth season's fruit, when the fourth season's canes are 

 removed. This process is repeated each year, remembering, always, that 

 the fruit is produced only on the new wood of the previous season; that is, 

 on shoots which issue from canes of the previous year. 



February is the best time for winter pruning; do not jirune old wood 

 after sap starts in spring. Summer pruning consists of rubbing off all 

 suckers and superfluous buds and pinching back the shoots at the proper 

 time. The shoots for next season's fruit should be pinched when they 

 have attained a growth of five or six feet, and the bearing shoots (when 

 the fruit has set) should have one leaf left beyond the farthest bunch of 

 fruit. 



MARKETING. 



Allow grapes to become well ripened and sweet before gathering; a 

 green grape is an abomination, and will discourage the buyer and lessen 

 consumption. They should always be gathered when dry and should be 

 allowed to stand twenty-four hours before packing to wilt and toughen 

 slightly, so they will stand the handling better. Handle the berries just 

 as little as possible in packing, but they must be packed firmly and closely 

 to give full weight and avoid settling and injury in shipping. The pack- 



