APPENDIX. 



249 



method of budding practiced on fruit trees. The bud is then tied tight with 

 heavy budding twine of at least eighteen-ply. Three weeks or so afterward, 

 if the bud has "taken. '" the twine is untied and tied over again ; this is done 

 in order to prevent the twine from cutting into the bark. This, however, is 

 not required to be done if the trees are relaxing in growth, or are of such 

 age as to have a bark thick enough to stand the pressure without injury. On 

 young and thrifty growing trees it is best to loosen the twine at the third 

 week, and it should be removed altogether at the fifth or sixth week. The 

 buds are then allowed to lie dormant until spring, when the stocks are cut 

 back to force the bud to start in the month of March or A])ril, according to 



A 



Fifr. 1— The biul, 

 front view. 



Fig. 2 — The bud, transverse 

 section. 



Fig. 3— the bud, 

 side view. 



locality. As the walnut does not put forth until late in the spring, walnut 

 stocks should not be cut back until they show indications of a rise of sap : 

 with me this has been the most successful time. As soon as the stocks begin 

 to put forth they are cut back and the buds allowed to grow. In cutting back 

 the stocks great care must be exercised. They must not be cut back too 

 close to the bud so as to endanger it. as the stocks invariably have a tendency 

 to die back at the tip. at least an inch or more. As the buds start they are 

 allowed to grow at will until they become hardy ; they can then be trained 

 to the remaining portion of the stock or to a stake, in order to produce a 

 straight tree. After the first year's growth they can be transplanted to 

 orchard form. 



