116 Appendix, 



ment for all trees, then the nurseryman is obliged to meet it. anrl the attempt 

 is made to grow all varieties to a common type, or else discard those varieties- 

 that do not form a "pretty tree" of gross vigor regardless of important merit. 

 When the planters learn that the trees of no two varieties liave the same habit — 

 in fact, that no two trees are alike — then may we expect to find nurserymen 

 growing trees for their real merits, and not for looks. It may be a real merit for 

 a tree to be straight, or it may be a merit for it to be kinky, thick, and with little 

 taper. It all depends upon the variety. If you have not well-defined ideas of the 

 requirements of first-class trees, then take counsel of a reliable local nurseryman- 

 of some years standing, if such an one is to be found in your locality.* If not, 

 then deal with the established firm that is nearest you. and one that would be- 

 connected naturally with your locality commercially. Under such circumstances 

 it is generally safe to rely upon the dealer to send you first-class trees of the 

 varieties ordered, for his business reputation rests upon the service he performs. 

 In this age, when the market value of an object depends so largely upon looks, 

 and when our ideas or tastes in this direction are the result of faulty education, 

 it is little wonder that our ideas of what looks good may be quite out of harmony 

 with the real merits of the object under consideration. 



A;/e of Trees to Plant — Formerly, and even at present in some parts of the- 

 East, writers advise the prospective orchardist to purchase two-year-old, or even 

 three-year-old trees for transplanting. But such advice is rarely, if ever, given in 

 Oregon at the present time. Trees one year old are old enough. The younger a 

 tree is when removed from the nursery the less of its active root system is left 

 there. The least check is given to a plant when it can be transferred with root 

 and stem systems intact. It is quite impracticable to remove a grafted or budded 

 tree from the nursery without more or less injury to its root system. The younger 

 the tree is, however, the less will be this injury, and consequently the less the 

 check in its development as a result of removal. As the tree gets older, larger 

 wounds are made upon the roots as they are severed, and these wounds offer a 

 place for attack by fungi, and often prove the source of much trouble to the fu- 

 ture tree. ^Yllen the young tree is removed from the nursery row, relatively small 

 roots are severed ; the wounds, if properly treated, soon heal, and danger from 

 fungous foes is reduced thereby to a minimum. 



One-year-old apple trees often grow to be five feet, and more, tall, and five- 

 eighths of an inch, and more, thick on Oregon nursery land. It is rarely, if ever, 

 that we find yearling apple trees less than three feet in height. There is no 

 reason for asking for larger trees for transplanting. 



Hoiv to Plant — The trees selected, next comes the planting. If possible the 

 roots should be carefully pruned immediately upon removal from the nursery row. 

 This can only be done when the nursery is near by, and the btiyer can be on the 

 ground at the time removal Is being made. Trees should remain out of the soil 

 only so long as is necessary to transfer them to the packing or heeling-in grounds. 

 If one can get the trees at the nursery when lifting operations are in progress, he 

 can remove all bruised and broken roots : make clean and smooth all ends where 

 roots have been cut or broken ofl: by the lifting implements ; cover the trees with 

 moist cloths, straw, or hay, and convey to the site for planting with as little delay 

 as may be, at all times using great care not to expose the roots to drying winds 

 or frosts while out of the ground. Upon getting the trees at place of planting, or 

 the home, heel them in at once. If the trees have been transported by rail or 

 boat, see that all broken roots are removed, and that fresh, clean, smooth cuts re- 

 place broken, bruised or roughly made end wounds before they are heeled In. 



Heelin{j-in — Dig a trench on the north side of a building, in the shade of a 

 grove, or on the north slope of a hill. Make the north side quite steep ; give the 

 other side an easy slope ; place the trees upon the sloping side, one, two, or three- 

 deep, with their neatly-trimmed roots close up to the steep side or face of the 

 trench, then cover them over with fine soil to the depth of a few, or several 

 inches, depending upon whether or not they are to endure freezing weather while 

 heeled-in. This treatment first of all keeps the air from the roots, keeps them. 



