Appendix. 227 



Plant deeply, working fine surface soil carefully about the roots, then 

 tread thoroughly with the feet until the hole is nearly full, and finish by 

 spreading the earth from the bottom of the hole loosely over the top. 

 When planted, set a strong four-foot stake an inch or so from the 

 stem; always on the same side of the row so that they will not bother 

 when cultivating. 



Cultivate thoroughly from early spring until August 1 to 10. Cultiva- 

 tion after this latter date tends to prevent the proper ripening of the 

 wood. The tools needed are a one-horse plow, a cultivator and a hoe. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING. 



The pruning the first year is plain sailing but after that it becomes 

 more difficult, and the beginner should, if possible, visit some experienced 

 grower and see how it is done, for it is very difficult to write directions 

 sufficiently clear for a new hand to follow. As soon as the two buds left 

 at the time of planting get long enough, tie the strongest one to the 

 stake and rub off the other. Keep the new shoot tied carefully to the 

 stake as it grows and rub off all latterals as fast as they appear. There 

 are many ways of training the vine, but the fan shape on a wire trellis 

 is my preference. If this method is adopted then the second spring the 

 first season's growth must be cut back to twelve or fifteen inches from 

 the ground, leaving the two top buds to grow, and rubbing off all other 

 shoots and suckers as fast as they appear. Treat these two shoots just 

 the same as the one of the first season. 



The third spring build trellis. Use heavy cedar posts well braced at 

 the ends and light posts every sixteen feet apart along the row. No. 

 12 galvanized wire, one twenty-four inches from the ground, the other 

 fifty-two or fifty-four inches should be stretched tight on the posts. Then 

 cut back the two canes of the second season's growth to three or four buds 

 each and tie the lower wire, still keeping the main stem tied to the stake 

 until strong enough to stand alone. Let two shoots grow from each branch 

 of the vine, tying them to the wires as they grow out; when five or six 

 feet long pinch off the ends. These should bear a few grapes, and will 

 furnish the bearing wood for the next season. The fourth season four 

 or five new shoots may be started for the fifth season's fruit, when the 

 fourth season's canes are removed. This process is repeated each year, 

 remembering, always, that the fruit is produced only on the new wood 

 of the previous season.* 



February is the best time for winter pruning; do not prune old wood 

 after sap starts in spring. Summer pruning consists of rubbing off all 

 suckers and superfluous buds and pinching back the shoots at the proper 

 time. The shoots for next season's fruit should be pinched when they 

 have attained a growth of five or six feet, and the bearing shoots (when 

 the fruit has set) should have one leaf left beyond the farthest bunch 



* On shoots which issue from canes of the previous year. 



t This is the so-called "stump" system of pruning as practiced in California 

 and also in Southern Oregon and at Forest Grove. 



