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needed, and a long experience in Jamaica where the soils are 

 heavy and where thorough drainage is absolutely necessary, I 

 have to make the following observations for the guidance of 

 those that are about to embark upon the cultivation of pine- 

 apples : — 



The prospective pine-apple grower should select his soil with 



the greatest care. The best soils are probably light loams, rich 

 in humus. A heavy cold soil, or soil inclined to become sticky 

 or gummy in wet weather should never be chosen. Look for 

 what is a good scouring soil containing sufficient sand to 

 make it pliable at all times, and it is advisable that it should 

 slope gradually. Hilly parts should be passed by. 



First the land should be thoroughly ploughed, then cross 

 ploughed, and harrowed until it is thoroughly pulverized 

 and freed from the smallest lumps. A wheel or disc harrow is 

 the only tool that can get such land into proper condition 

 This should be followed by an Acme harrow which will smooth 

 and level the land. A tooth harrow should not be used, for this 

 tool only pulls out the grass and weeds, and brings to the surface 

 trash, which is best left in the soil to assist in enriching the land. 

 After the land has been prepared, mark off with a line for 

 trenches. These trenches should be 1 4 inches wide and 14 inches 

 deep, and should follow the slope of the land in order to afford 

 proper drainage. The trenches should be 1 2 feet apart, they 

 should be made perfectly straight and in line, and all soil taken 

 from them is best thrown equally on both sides in order to build 

 up the beds. This soil then, should be raked towards the centre 

 of the beds and brought somewhat higher in the middle than at 

 the sides, so as to allow a difference of about 6 inches between 

 the height in the middle and that along the edge of the trenches. 

 A fine-tooth steel rake should be used and the beds should be 

 made as smooth and even as possible. 



When the trenches and beds have been completed, mark off 

 each bed into checks 18 xl8 inches. This will give about nine 

 rows along the beds. The cross checks should be made regularly 

 except at intervals ; two lines can be admitted so as to allow for 

 paths. These marks should be made with a wooden marker and 

 they should be perfectly straight to facilitate subsequent cultiva- 

 tion. The plants are then dropped at the intersection of each 

 mark. They are then ready for the planter, who with a good 

 strong trowel, follows along and sets the plant at each cross 

 mark at a depth of one-fourth of their length. This depth of 

 planting is to be recommended no matter what the length of a 

 plant. If planted too shallow, they will not become sufficiently 

 rooted, and heavy winds will blow them out of the ground ; and 

 if planted too deeply they are liable to be smothered by having 

 the soil filling the hearts. Suckers or slips that are longer than 

 12 inches can be lopped off and brought clown to 8 inches so as 

 to facilitate rapid planting and to prevent their being blown out 

 of the ground before they have taken root. If the suckers are not 

 planted in strictly straight rows each way, they should be pulled 



